Question about 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager
I have a 1999 plymouth grand Voyager hvac controls not working. I checked all the fuses but they are all fine. I am not sure if there is any mssing relay as I do not have a diagram, but all that are there appear to be working.
The blower works just the rear wiper, rear defog, temp slider and the air directioner are not working.
I want to be sure before replacing the control unit that it is the control panel failed.
The last owner stated that they had a mechanic look at it and tols her the a/c compressor was ceased. So he disabled it to make the belt work.
The belt is connected to the a/c compressor and spins fine. The clutch on the a/c compressor spins as well so in my opinion the compressor is not ceased. The plug on the compressor was disconnected. there is a little freon left in the system but is low.
My goal is to at least get the rear wiper , rear defogger, etc to work. The a/c I will work on at another time( when I can afford it)
I checked if the connector was connected on the back of the hvac control panel. it is.
It sounds like an issue with the motherboard. you should concider having that checked. the circuits for a few of those things could be blown out
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
I can help you and make suggestions as to what has been needed to remedy this problem on the Voyager and Caravan.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
OK on the rear wiper and the defroster heating grid you need to do some testing for me, gain access to the wiper motor and the connector at the motor, turn on the rear wiper and verify that you have two wires that show 12 volts (u will need to buy a cheap 12 volt test light for this, about $5.00 at Kragen or another parts store like them) with the key on and wiper turned on, if u do show 12 volts then replace the wiper motor it is defective, next I want you to go to the following link and watch the video on diagnosis and repair of the rear defroster grid, if the grid checks ok (I doubt it will) replace the rear defroster control. http://www.ehow.com/video_2327369_diagnosing-bad-defroster-grid.html
You said the AC is another issue but does the system have a full charge? a low system refrigerant charge will render the compressor inoperative, your van is very prone to AC line leaks so this may be the issue here.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
i will give the instructions for the rear wiper,rear defogger and for temp slider to make it work,
There are three possible points of failure; themotor, the parking switch, and finally the switch that turns it on.
Obviously, the motor is located in the hatch itself but also there will be aparking switch that supplies power to the motor after the user switch is turnedoff and until the blade is in the park position. The user switch is of courselocated on the dash or in a stalk on the steering column.
To find the culprit (and for future use around the home and cars), I recommendthat everyone should own a cheap digital multimeter. They are available fromRadio Shack and auto parts stores for under $20 US and if you have a HarborFreight Tool store in your area, for under $10 US.
This will give you the means to check for voltage at the motor and/or continuityof it. You should be able to eliminate the items that are working in 20 or 30minutes.
These meters come with a simple Chinglish instruction sheet that will give youthe basics in case you are not familiar with them.
You probably won't avoid opening up the inside panel(s) to gain access for yourtests.
You have confirmed power getting to relay andback out as well? Now it's a matter of figuring out where power is getting lostbetween relay & rear window grid. Are you able to follow/see wire from grid& where it heads down side of trim around window, perhaps into trunk etc?One way I would suggest checking for continuity in that harness back to windowwould be to use a piece of wire long enough to reach rear window from plug atrelay, stick one end in plug good, then use a continuity tester between thatwire, and connector at grid. We're trying to confirm break in wire from relayto grid.
The a/c systen needs to berecalibrated. This will happen sometimes when you replace or disconnect thebattery. Be sure to make a good note of this easy repair for next time.
Before resetting the a/c make sure the evaporator is warm or the cooldown testwill not pass.
To initiate recalibration, start the engine, set the blower motor on high, setthe mode position to panel, open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (Bothtemperature sliders if equipped). Depress and hold the rear washer and rearwiper buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds or until all LED'slight. Calibration is running when rear wiper LED and intermittantLED are alternately flashing. Calibration is complete when just the rear wiperLED is flashing. Push the rear wiper button once more to exit diagnostic mode.
Again in a different language
1. To run calibration and cool down tests:
A. Start the motor.
B. Set the blower motor on HIGH.
C. Set the mode position to PANEL.
D. Open all A/C outlets.
E. Set the temperature to COLD (both slider pots if so equipped).
F. Depress the WASH and REAR WIPER buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds (untilall the control panel lights come on solid).
2. When the tests are done and the calibration is complete, only the rear wiperbutton will be flashing. Just tap it once to exit the test.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
Please try to pull the control unit and look to see if the cable is still on the lever and moving the cable
If there is not resistance to the lever or the cable then it probably came off at the door shaft in the box assembly.Today i am working on a 99 breeze it has no heat at all from the heater the hoses are warm to and from the core, the lower rad hose was cold, the upper was as hot as the engine, i put a new thermostat in it and the lower got warm but not hot, still no heat inside the car at all,
So we are going to go ahead and pull the core out and replace it and has to be plugged up
doesnt make sense that both hoses are arm, but many things dont make sense in this life
70k miles old thermostat was worn badly however,
very easy replacement, the easiest one i have ever replaced, no gasket, no sealer, no anything, its awesome
Replacing the core isnt that bad really, you do have to unbolt the entire dash and remove the shift knob and console, but its just a matter of some screws and bolts
not that bad, straightforward remove the radio and HVAc controls bezel, and the dash end cap covers, they all pop on, just pry them off carefully, no screws on them
pull the shift knob and console remove the underdash panels, round clips to pry out unbolt dash, lift up and away some to get to the core cover pull the core now the opposite order.
That should be it.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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