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If your shoes are cracked replace them now. What can happen is a piece of the shoe can brake of and jam in the braking system of that wheel or both wheels and cause damage to the drum or brake hardware in the wheel.
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Your description sounds like the brakes are WAY out of adjustment. The brake cylinders need the shoes to hit the drum or they will do exactly what you describe. I always adjust the shoes until they lock the wheel, then back off until the wheel spins freely, usually 8 to 20 clicks.
Check rear brakes for:
1. Brake shoe (Cracked or distorted)
2. Installation bolt (Loose)
3. Rear brake drum (Scored)
4. Brake shoe (Dirty).
5. Brake shoe (Glazed)
6. Tension or return spring (Faulty)
7. Anti-squeal shim (Damaged)
8. Shoe hold down spring (Damaged).
6. Apply a thin layer of multipurpose grease on the area between the back plate and the brake shoes by slightly pulling off the shoes with the help of a screw driver.
After you remove the tire, the drim should slide off. If it doesn't then try using a rubber mallet and gently tap on the outside edge as you pull on it. Sometimes you also need to tap on the drum in the center part. I have sprayed penetrating lubes like WD-40 or PB Blaster into the seam at the center. You may also have to back off the parking brake cable or even use the adjuster to back off the shoes.
you have to check the e-brake shoes. these shoes live inside the rear brake rotors. the shoes will either just need to be adjusted or possibly replaced if they cracked from the heat of driving w/ them engaged. sorry there's not a quick fix to this one
you need to inspect your backing plates for grooves in the pads where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. during a break job these spots are supposed to be lubed with proper non grease brake backing plate lube. some people use never sieze compound... also make sure brake shoes were installed correctly having the primary and secondary shoe correctly in it's place, if you have grooves in your backing plates then the shoes will bounce up and down as they move across the groves this will make a clicking noise, also have seen cracked brake drums make noise... give close inspection with wheels off , if you can jack rear of car off ground support with jack stands , chalk front wheels , then remove wheels on both sides but use a lug nut to hold brake drum on securley, now have someone watch and listen and watch as you let wheels spin under power of engine at low rpm , inspect and watch for possible clues...please rate my help, thanks...
Remove wheel from drum... using a large hammer crack the wheel drum a few times, this should loosen the brake shoe's or the rust which is locking the drum, on the rear of the drum you will find a small square nut which is the adjuster for the shoes try to turn anti clockwise this will also help to loosen the shoes.... hope this helps
The grinding noise in the rear brake drum means that brake shoes are warn out and the metal part of the shoe is touching the drum. You need to replace it asap as it will damage the inner part of the drum and than replacing shoes will not help without skimming or replacing the drum.
i think your aware of how to change the brakes if im right and your problem is the rusted drum doesnt want to come off the only way to get the old drum off is to remove adjuster plug from behind drum dustshield and adjust the shoes so that there not even close to the braking area of the drum then try and wiggle the drum off of the assembly if it is not coming off then you need to use the old nylon hammer on the drum and i mean you must hit the drum from side to side trying by hand to wiggle the drum off its a tight fit and you need to strike the drum on the face not on the fins not wanting to damage with persistance and care and patience you will eventually be able to remove the drum to service brakes take care and good luck with it
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove the rear wheels.
Remove the drums.
Remove the automatic adjuster spring and lever.
Remove the hold-down clips and pins.
Rotate the automatic adjuster starwheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.
Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever.
Remove the lower shoe to shoe spring.
With the shoes held together by the upper shoe to shoe spring, remove them from the backing plate.
Kelsey Hayes rear brake assembly (left side shown)Exploded view of the drum brake assembly—2004 model shown
GOODLUCK, shoes for this car ~ 15 bucks at auto zone.
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