Question about 1990 Ford Thunderbird

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Car drops out at 2700 rpm and sputters

94 t bird lx 4.6l idles perfestly but when i rev it up the car stuggles to get above 3000 rpm

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  • dompugs Jun 02, 2009

    well i have been able to rev the car up to 5000 rpm but recently after a motor swap its been doing this. i have gone over everything i can think of and im going insane. it idles perfectly. i rev it up and it gets to about 2700 and it just start sputtering and then it will climb up to 4500 but fall back.

  • dompugs Jun 03, 2009

    ok well i am absolutley positive that all sensors are there i have also discovered that i have no vacuum pressure for my EGR. could that cause the problem?

  • dompugs Jun 03, 2009

    my EVR on the car is only giving vacuum pressure to my fuel rail modulator or whatever its called. i have no vacuum to my EGR though. Does anyone know the break down of a EVR. i think mine's fucked because the vent cap on the top broke and it rattles. my TP sensor is fine

  • dompugs Jun 04, 2009

    thx. im getting pressure from the intake and its going through the EVR. it has two lines from in it. one is coming from the intake and one is going into the EGR. the one going into the EGR isnt working. im pretty sure all the sensors fine. i do have a check engine light. i have a brand new snap-on code reader that we used on the vehicle when we completed the engine swap (1 year ago) now the reader isnt working on the cars OBD2 plug. and i know the reader works.

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There is a rev limiter in these cars that disallows over revving in park or neutral. Does it climb past 2700 under hard acceleration?

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • Thomas Neubauer
    Thomas Neubauer Jun 03, 2009

    When you did the motor swap was this a complete swap meaning sensors, intake etc and all? If it was I would start out by proving out the Throttle position sensor. These can cause all kinds of erratic running issues. Keep working with me, I think we can work this out.

  • Thomas Neubauer
    Thomas Neubauer Jun 03, 2009

    There should be a control valve or solenoid for the EGR, if you have physical damage to the EGR I would recommend replacing it. I have however seen EGR valves that look like junk work fine. Test it first.

    Use a vacuum pump to actuate the valve and see if it opens. You may not be able to see the valve open visually so you will have to let the car idle and apply vacuum, the car should die while doing this. Also your EGR should hold vacuum.

    These systems can have simple solutions to complicated problems. If you do not have a manual for the car that encompasses the testing of the EGR I would recommend getting one as explaining it here is beyond this scope.

    Key points are
    1. These must hold a vacuum when it is applied
    2. These must move smoothly
    3. These must have a source vacuum. It is usually controlled by some sort of valve or solenoid. If you have no vacuum at the EGR (as you indicate) step back to the controller and see if it has vacuum. If the controller is lacking vacuum follow it to the source and check the source, this should be a intake manifold nipple.

    Clarification ~
    What I meant in my commentary about the sensors, I was looking to see if you are using the sensors from the blown motor or the new one. I ask only because it can be hard to know if all sensors attached to the donor motor were actually good. You indicate that you have tested the TP sensor so we will assume it known good.

    Hope this helps.

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