Question about 1989 Dodge Raider

11 Answers

Starts when it wants. no check engin light. runs good

New fuel pump pressure reg. timing belt,plugs,cap, etc......when its not firing there is power to coil .no spark

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  • Scott Linn Jun 03, 2009

    Yesterday I discovered corosion in the hazard switch when it broke ,so I eliminated it and it started and ran great all day, with out turn signals, last night it just died

  • Scott Linn Jun 03, 2009

    Ive tried different batt. This morning,hasn't fired. the disk that the photo optic eye reads, the outter ring , low speed slots , has a small nick in it. and the adjusting slot on the dist. is as far as it will go counter clock wise. can move spine gear one tooth either way? and I havn't any luck finding that disk in the dist. does a new photo eye come w/ that?

  • Scott Linn Jun 04, 2009

    All gauges go flat... Just like someone turned the key back. Also I've noticed spot of corostion here and there.

  • Scott Linn Jun 07, 2009

    I've replaced the battery.........still no miracle

  • Scott Linn Jun 07, 2009

    It did start, but if I throttle it up it stumbles and does not responed correctly. if I let it idle , It still dies after a short time & wont restart

  • Scott Linn Jun 12, 2009

    Okay! new fuel filter. New starter. Sprayed altenator,and ??75%?? of the sensors,and electrical conections ,ignition with electical spray cleaner. It starts hard [when I crank it spins like a top, turn key off, then crank it agin it sounds like the timing is advanced 10 or 15*, turn key off, crank agin, it spinns like a top. This vehicle is in pristine condition! the wiring is not altered any where. factory radio has been replaced , and I cant find the Diagnostic plug to read CODES?

  • Scott Linn Jun 13, 2009

    ecm checks out fine

  • Scott Linn Jun 14, 2009

    obviosly YOU HAVE NOT read my intire thread, Ive replaced fuel pump ,filter ,regulator,. Cap, wires, rotor,& plugs. Timing belt, starter, coil, Battery,ignition modual, switched the distributor, unplug every plug-in I can reach,. fixed vacum leaks.????? I am a mechanic. I have my own shop .I've owned,toyotas,audis,mazdas,. I built my first B.B. bowtie at 15yrs old Im 39 and it still carries 80lb of oil pressure OH and pulls front whells of my 70 impala first car ever owned . Im scaching my head till it bleed. mybe I should get a bigger hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

  • Scott Linn Jun 16, 2009

    still no luck!!!!!!!!!
    can any one help!!!!!!!!!!!!

    ????????????????????????????????????????????????????

  • Scott Linn Jun 20, 2009

    Now it starts every time. But only idles for awile or if I pump it fast it rev up and then stumble and die, restarts though.???

  • Scott Linn Jun 20, 2009


    All Products > Dodge > 1989 Raider > Troubleshooting





    Starts when it wants. no check engin light. runs good

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    linns78 on Jun 03, 2009
    " "
    new fuel pump pressure reg. timing belt,plugs,cap, etc......when its not firing there is power to coil .no spark


    Comment posted on Jun 03, 2009
    Yesterday I discovered corosion in the hazard switch when it broke ,so I eliminated it and it started and ran great all day, with out turn signals, last night it just died

    Comment posted on Jun 03, 2009
    Ive tried different batt. This morning,hasn't fired. the disk that the photo optic eye reads, the outter ring , low speed slots , has a small nick in it. and the adjusting slot on the dist. is as far as it will go counter clock wise. can move spine gear one tooth either way? and I havn't any luck finding that disk in the dist. does a new photo eye come w/ that?

    Comment posted on Jun 04, 2009
    All gauges go flat... Just like someone turned the key back. Also I've noticed spot of corostion here and there.

    Comment posted on Jun 07, 2009
    I've replaced the battery.........still no miracle

    Comment posted on Jun 07, 2009
    It did start, but if I throttle it up it stumbles and does not responed correctly. if I let it idle , It still dies after a short time & wont restart

    Comment posted on Jun 12, 2009
    Okay! new fuel filter. New starter. Sprayed altenator,and ??75%?? of the sensors,and electrical conections ,ignition with electical spray cleaner. It starts hard [when I crank it spins like a top, turn key off, then crank it agin it sounds like the timing is advanced 10 or 15*, turn key off, crank agin, it spinns like a top. This vehicle is in pristine condition! the wiring is not altered any where. factory radio has been replaced , and I cant find the Diagnostic plug to read CODES?

    Comment posted on Jun 13, 2009
    ecm checks out fine

    Comment posted on Jun 14, 2009
    obviosly YOU HAVE NOT read my intire thread, Ive replaced fuel pump ,filter ,regulator,. Cap, wires, rotor,& plugs. Timing belt, starter, coil, Battery,ignition modual, switched the distributor, unplug every plug-in I can reach,. fixed vacum leaks.????? I am a mechanic. I have my own shop .I've owned,toyotas,audis,mazdas,. I built my first B.B. bowtie at 15yrs old Im 39 and it still carries 80lb of oil pressure OH and pulls front whells of my 70 impala first car ever owned . Im scaching my head till it bleed. mybe I should get a bigger hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

    Comment posted on Jun 16, 2009
    still no luck!!!!!!!!!
    can any one help!!!!!!!!!!!!

    ????????????????????????????????????????????????????

    Comment posted on Jun 20, 2009
    Now it starts every time. But only idles for awile or if I pump it fast it rev up and then stumble and die, restarts though.???

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11 Answers

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Hey man check the spark plugs and its cables for corrosion also check the distributor rotor for corrosion and check the output cables from the distribur if it's corroded if every thing is right then check if there is air leak into ur engine if not then check the idle regulator screw there is two screws try to regulate it one for fuel and the other for air so try to regulate solely each part alone start with air screw try to decrease the air a little bit till ur car will be cool if not try to regulat the fuel screw if not try to regulate the bothe screws
plz if this not helpfull rate this solution as Not Helpful

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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  • Master
  • 527 Answers

Sir,
Model, year of manufacture, miles driven...plz provide all the details. List all the parts of which you replaced.
Thanks

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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Does the car have a crank or cam sensor?

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Hi


1. The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
2. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
3. Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
4. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
5. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
6. In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.

Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

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  • Master
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Sounds like an ECM (engine Control Module) issue.
The ECM brain is behind the Passenger side KickPanel in your vehicle.
There is nothing serviceable on the unit - it must be exchanged for a new one.
The ECM (along with other things) takes data from crank/cam sensors to calculate the proper time to fire the spark. If it is getting bad readings from sensors - or good readings that it now cannot translate, the car will not fire properly.

The OBD port should be just above the pedals on the drievr's side - tucked up in the dashboard.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

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  • 130 Answers

There is no spark as you mentioned.if the sparks aRE NOT GENERATING sparks at the receving end.then the car can die in the middle as the pressure has to be created contoinuously when the car is running.check out the spark plugs.also get the car codes at the car diagnosis center,as this will be free test ast the car service center and exact codes will give the exact faulty part to be replaced.
at autozone also they conduct free diagnostic test for car.
thanks.
please do rate.keep updated.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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You will need to replace the photo optic trigger wheel and the ignition module, I am sure the problem you have is there, here are some prices and part number from my favorite parts supplier rockauto.com

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # LX122 {IGNITION MODULE}
Unit set includes module and optical sensor assembly. $114.00

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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99% of the time its the ign switch with those symptons, do all the gauges work when it dies???if not its the switch,most likely more corrosion.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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It seems to me like either your wiring layout is incorrect, or there is an issue with your battery.... i would check to see if your wiring layout is right because that could cause a short so the spark might not be able to get to your coil...

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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Your battery is death most likely.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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Hi,

Well more than likely you may need to run a new power wire to the coil. does that have an HEI distributor. If it does just run a wire straight from a 12 volt power source to the distributor. If it starts that will tell you that the power source you already have is bad. It won't hurt anything to just run one from somewhere else. People do it all the time. Get back to me and let me know if it would fix this issue.

Thanks.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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