Question about 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
Whenever I drive on the highway for an extended period of time (an hour or more) and get on the off ramp, it will start to run rough and will die at the stop sign/light.
If I put it in park, start it again and try to shift into drive normally it will just stall out. What I usually have to do to get it to run again is either put it in park or neutral, give it about half throttle and slam it into drive. Then it runs fine for some reason until I have to go faster that 50 mph for awhile and then drastically reduce my speed.
Someone told me that it may be a solenoid problem, but I don't know where it's located, how to replace it, or if it's actually whats causing the problem. It's definitely not happening because of overheating because it will happen in the winter too, though less frequently.
Bad torque convertor solenoid , unplug the electric connector on transmission u can drive your car fine and save yourself a $1000 repair
Posted on Mar 05, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
maybe the wire is severed where the door (drver dr) pivots. thats what was wrong with mine. there is a rubber boot with crinkles in it that hold all the wires together. you can also try replacing the switch board that controls the wndws on the drvr dr. hope that helps.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Get a Chilton's book on the car. It will take you thru the whole job, and give you the torque specs for putting it back together. You will need a torque wrench, foot pounds, and a good socket set.
Posted on May 04, 2009
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