Question about 2000 Ford Explorer

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Spongy brakes I have 1991 ford explore 4x4 stick. MY brake pedal goes to the floor. i have bleed the that fixed it for about a week. its doing it again and bleed them again but nothing. whats wrong? 2000 Ford Explorer, brakes are spongy. Checked Master cylinder, low on fluid. Refilled fluid, bled brakes...same thing happened again. Spongy brakes, low fluid, definitely air in the lines, but no fluid leaks apparent anywhere. Where the heck is the fluid going? Is this a master cylinder that needs replacing? If it does need replacing, my manual references a special tool needed for 4 wheel ABS master cylinders. I believe this a 4 wheel ABS, if I'm looking at the correct thing. There is a cylinder between the battery and the power distribution box that has 5 lines running into it, and is marked "F" and "R". Do I really need this tool? Any help is greatly appreciated.

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  • pwsuver Jun 01, 2009

    Thanks Redbear.

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  • Master
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Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

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1 Answer

The brake pedal goes right to the floor


Did you try bleeding the brakes? Sounds like air in the line.

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I have a 96 ford explorer xlt 4wd with ABS. When I bought it it had a broken back break line. I replaced the line blead the breaks and the breaks are spongy. I googled the issuse and found out it could be...


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How to bleed the brakes after you replace rear brake lines


hi, if you look at the back of the brake drum you will see a little bleed nipple just sticking out think its an 8ml or 10ml spanner fit, what you then need to do is find a piece of plastic pipe that will fit over the top of this to catch any fluid then make sure the brake fluid is topped up, you then need someone in the car to operate the brake pedal and some one at the back where the bleed nipple is once you have this you need to do the following

1 undo bleed nipple a couple of turns
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if you have any problems give me a shour back ok

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OK, there are little nipples or bleeder screws that when not rusty and new can be turned with a small wrench or socket.

The problem is that when they get old and rusty, they can shear off or round off the hexagonal sides and corners of the bleeder screw.

Therefore, you sometimes need some oxy acetylene torch heat pinpointed on the bleeder screw to let air and brake fluid out of each wheel's bleeder screw (through the hole in the center).

If you only add brake fluid, then air bubbles can still exist in the sensitive brake lines, causing a spongy pedal and endangering anyone who drives it.

One wants a hard pedal that pumps up in a couple of tries, not a spongy pedal that goes to the floor board, which doesn't generate much braking force.

FIrst, pump up the brakes to maximum pressure by pumping the brake pedal up and down.

Then, on the down cycle (a friend or assistant can do this), open the bleeder screw counter clockwise until fluid comes out. Don't allow any in your eyes. Then tighten the bleeder screw and ask the assistant to pump up the brakes again, and then repeat the cycle on the 4 different wheels, until it has a 'hard' pedal and not 'soft.'


I wish you luck on bleeding your brakes.

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It sounds like you have a bad mastercylinder cause when you panic brake it doesn't have time to bleed through the valve in the cylinder but under normal braking your foot is on pedal longer in turn giving the fluid time to bypass the valve in the mastercylinder in turn the pedal going to the floor.

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Check fluid level fill if low. If this doesnt do it you may have air in the system you might have to bleed the air.

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1 Answer

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Hello

With regards to the brake lights, you need to replace your brake switch located under your brake pedal.

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hope this helps.

Thanks

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