I first replaced the pulley off of the serpentine belt. When i check the tensioner is was a lot of free play in it. so i purchase a new tensioner and replaced it. It still squeals very loud. i also noticed the slippage marks on the serpentine belt. this is a brand new belt I only bought this belt 5 days ago. I bought this truck from a friend. The whole engine was rebuilt. I also did notice that the engine light also comes on. Iam not sure if this is part of the problem or something new.
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Re: severe whistling noise at idle,acceleration.
Have the codes read to see if they are related. Make sure the belt is the correct length. Inspect the pulleys and bearings for failure, also you can look at the entire system an see if there is an alignment issue.
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Serpentine belts are a great invention but unfortunately they drive
everything on a modern engine which places a lot of load on them. When
your belt displays any of the following: -squeals when accelerating. -chirps constantly -squeals constantly -squeals when wet or moist outside -squeals when cold -or any combination of the above.
The belt must be replaced, but wait...
If you replace the belt it may stop for a while but then the noise
comes back. This is because the old belt was slipping and has polished
the pulleys or "glazed" them. So before you replace that noisy
belt scrub all of the pulleys well with a scotch brite pad, or a good
wire brush to remove the glaze and rough up the surface. Clean them off
with brake cleaner afterward. Belts work by friction so if the surface
is polished too much the belt will slip. If you have already put on a
new belt and it is making noise, -sorry you must buy a new one again.
Slipping on the pulleys will glaze a new belt fast which ruins it. Some
people say you can apply brake cleaner etc to a new belt to fix it but
that may not work well. If it slips it will just mess up your newly
cleaned pulleys and you will have to scrub them up all over again. So do
the job right and rough up the pulleys AND replace the belt at the same
There are a few other things that can cause serpentine belt noise tho so before you replace the belt check the following: -The
bearings in the tensioner and idler pulleys can go bad. To test this
put some chalk or whiteout on the edge of those pulleys so it makes a
bright "flash" you can see when it rotates. If the chirp is in time with
the flash on one of the pulleys most likely you have a bad bearing in
that pulley. Sometimes if you have the right tools you can press in a
new bearing. Other times you need to get a new assembly. Other
accessories can have bad bearings also so you may need to mark and watch
them also. WARNING: Never stand in line with a moving belt or fan. If
it comes apart etc it could cause severe injury. -The tensioner can
loose it's tension which will cause the belts to slip. If it is easy to
move the tensioner then it needs to be replaced and the pulleys cleaned
and belt replaced. -The belt can become delaminated and part of the
outer fabric cover can come loose which will "flap" when it hits parts
of the engine making a noise. If you hear this tick tick tick noise and
it seems to be in time with that printing on the belt then this may be
the problem. Always install a serpentine belt so that the cover splice
is pushed down by the motion of the belt rather than being peeled
upward. -The belt can crack or delaminate and sections of the inner
VVVVV surface may break off and cause mysterious noises. If you see
cracks in the inner surface replace the belt.
Check the belt tensioner and the idle pulley... (looks just like the pulley on the tensioner, but bolts straight in.).. - from experience...my single pulley was bad... after replacing the tensioner TWICE... (duhh!!)
it could be the tensioner, water pump, alternator, A/C compressor, power steering, or even a really bad serpentine belt. The only way to be sure is to remove the s-belt and spin-check the pulleys and listen for squeaks or grinding bearings.
The Tensioner Pulley Bearings are failing and either the Tensioner Pulley or the Tensioner Assembly (Pulley, Arm and Base) must be removed and replaced.
Click on the following free direct Link. It has several of the Serpentine Belt Diagrams and Tensioners that are possible with your 4.3L V6 engine. http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1998/make/gmc/model/jimmy/1998_gmc_jimmy_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm 1. Remove the Serpentine Belt. "HOW TO": Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner: A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Removing the Tensioner Pulley: See the Diagrams in the Link. After the Belt has been removed, with the Tensioner resting: DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE TENSIONER: IF the Tensioner Pulley itself HAS a Bolt Head showing, SOME of these bolts can be removed and the Tensioner Pulley replaced. IF the Tensioner Pulley itself DOES NOT HAVE a Bolt Head showing, then go to the Tensioner Base located at the end of the Tensioner Arm. This should have a Bolt Head Showing. Remove this Bolt and the whole Tensioner Assembly will com off.
When replacing the Tensioner Assembly - MAKE SURE you place the protruding "nipple" on the underside base of the Tesnioner into the appropriate cavity on the engine face. Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
i have a similar problem. a squeaking noise, sounds when i start the engine, and when i stop the engine. at times it comes when the engine is running and idle, and it lasts some time like a high pitched whistle. Ive had several mechanics look at it, and it seem to be one of the smaller pulleys that the belts run around. in the 2002 model (petrol) of the crv the belts are not the cam belts, becuase this model has a cam chain (much more robust!). so they all said its nothing to worry about. you can try having your pulley replaced.
first thing you need to do is get a new belt that belt dressing just destroyed that belt that stuff is no good then get a new belt tensioner clean all the pullys with some brake clean then install the belt tensioner and belt if its still sqealing there maybe a pully making the noise to check that when you have the belt off spin them by hand and listen to them and feel for any play in the bearings
could be the alternator, water pump take the belt and spin all the pulleys and listen for noise and make sure they turn smoothly another trick is to take a can of wd40 or equivalent and spray the bearings 1 at a time till the noise goes away or quiets down