Question about 1988 Toyota Pickup

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Truck died while driving - no spark from coil

Truck died while driving. Tested - no spark from output of coil to distributor. Do have voltage in connector to ignitor.

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Replace your ignitor and module that will fix your problem!

Posted on May 31, 2009

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1 Answer

Where does the ground wire on the ignition module of a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.9 V6 run to? I believe it is the bottom wire #6, top wire being number 1. It seems like my distributor has a bad ground!


Check there is a good spark from the ignition coil when the distributor is pulsed, if so check that the rotor is not earthing out on the distributor shaft. if no spark from the coil have it tested.

Nov 01, 2017 | 1987 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Truck starts runs well then suddenly dies and no spark. after sitting for a bit it runs fine again but not for long. help


Possible defective ballast resistor that may be overheating causing the shut down of the ignition coil.

Nov 07, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I renewd head and replaced it,but now no spark from coil after reasemlbly.


what does working mean.
1: cranks but will not start
2: runs bad.
3: spark dead.

the stock sammy engine, 1.3 has a stand alone Distributor.
it has a VR sensor + ignitor and 1 external coil.
any ign coil can be bench tested. ask.
did you do the checks in the FSM yet?

many a SAMMI have the engine swapped, this old
many are upgraded to Sidekick G16 engines, so first post what the engine is, or a photo of it for fast ID.
chapter 8 ? read that? volume 2.
pdf page 69:? coil tests.
set the VR gap right yet? page 70
vr gen resistance page 70?
page 71 , ignitor test , figures 8-16?

does rotor spin , cranking?
with a voltmeter on the negative (-) . terminal (Volts to ground test)
does the ignitor fire the coil as you crank car.
12v, 0v, 12v ,0v, repeats as you crank
if not, the Dizzy is bad, or not grounded.
or the the coil is open (primary) see page 69 again.

if the dizzy is dead. we replace the whole thing
from Cardone, for 1/2 prize of bad parts inside.
the internals are very expensive.

the distributor must be grounded well, and with varnish on these
old parts, that can fail.

the VR is a very weak signal (below 1v) that is is amplified by the
VR amp then this is a strong gating signal to the Ignitor which
is just a very powerful transistor, in reality.
you can check the ignitor output with a meter or scope of any kind
to see if it is FIRING.

if the voltage is 0v, the coil is open or the ignitor is shorted.
the latter failure, loves to burn up good coils.
if stuck at 12v, cranking, the VR/Ignitor is bad, try setting the gap
or grounding the dizzy case with a jumper wire to the battery neg lug.
that is it on old DIZZy's (distributors, unless the advance is bad....)











Jan 31, 2014 | 1988 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

Truck stuttered and died now wont start


yup it can in the distributor you have a white plastic coil .very common for these to just die. you have to pull the distributor to change . when you begin make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center . it makes it easie to put everything back together . your rotor will point to the number 1 cylinder on reassmebly then set timing ........ You have turned it over with a spark wire off right to see if it sparkes. do this first !

Nov 21, 2013 | 1989 GMC S-15 Jimmy

1 Answer

1990 Dodge Ramcharger won't start. Battery output 12v, voltage across coil terminals 6v, voltage output at coil port to coil wire 6v, voltage of coil wire output to distributor 6v. Engine will c


There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor.
You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out.
You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.

Jan 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Can't get any fire at the secondary of the coil,even to ground. Tested the coil, it's fine and so is the voltage on the connector pins at 11.75v to the primary of the coil. The voltage is ther


I'm not sure if I am following the story here. The coil has battery voltage on the positive side and is grounded by the distributor and ignitor on the negative side. The spark happens when the ground is taken away.
The distributor provides the signal to the igniter.
Have you checked to see if you are getting a ground pulse to the coil from the igniter ?

Sep 10, 2012 | 1988 Nissan 300ZX

2 Answers

My toyota corolla was idline fine then just cut off . no spark in distributor


If your engine cranks normally but will not start and cuts off because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:
A bad pickup inside the distributor a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears, broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
If there is power going from the coil to the dist, but no spark coming out of the dist. the Condenser is bad. Small round thing that has a wire that hooks to the points. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.You can check this with voltmeter.------------------
That's it.

Nov 18, 2010 | 1990 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

I have a no spark condition even after i replaced the ignition coil. then tested the positive side of the coil and connector and found power to the connector and positive side of the coil but when testing...


You have tested for voltage but is it enough? My experience With this model Is the distributor pin has sheared off and is not turning if the rotor does not spin the coil will not spark, remove the cap and crank the engine over and watch the rotor if it does not move that's your problem. There are some other problems that can cause this as well but have given you this one for the most common, if this is not your problem write back and I will tell you what else to check.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1991 Honda Accord

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

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