Question about 1987 Toyota Celica
1993 toyota camry v6 xle cigarette lighter keeps blowing fuse #8 (driver's side under dash) behind coin holder. Have tried to install new lighter with bulb for finding at night. Have 4 wires one hot green, one black both for lighter, and 2 smaller wires one light blue with red stripe and one white with red stripe, no quick connects. Used car 3 months ago (120,000 miles), came this way with wires capped. How do I reconnect to Victor lighter with one hot center connect, one sleeve ground and a single black wire for bulb to make glow at night? Also, no gauge lights recently,no parking lights and p/w-p.locks stopped working, replaced #14 relay and now doors and windows work. Also replaced driver,s door actuator, with used as motor went. Lastly, power antenna motor makes noise, but no longer goes up and down,but don't really care about that. Is there a reset on a 1993 camry v6 xle with one driver's air bag and do I need to remove neg. wire from battery to reset. Note, before the lighter, parking lights and gauge light(s), I had replaced the battery with new appropriate Auto Zone Battery. Thanks for any advice you can give. P.S. no sound, but 2 speaker's test fine on driver's door only. Thanks for any advice. Dave 1987 Camry. Blows fuse to cigarette lighter (and clock display) repeatedly. I have been charging cell phone via cigarette lighter for 6 months. Problem started recently, two weeks after replacing radiator. The engine got warm a couple of times, but never red-lined. Any ideas for what's wrong and how to fix? Many thanks!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i HAD the same problem.... first check the fuse under the hood labeled 'dome' should be a 7.5A it is blown for sure... also if you are good with wiring and at working on cars look at the drivers side doo wiring (between the inside door jam and the drivers side floor... its the wiring that goes through the door to the cabin.... anyway you have to take off the door panel and remove a small cover on the floor of the drivers side.... now remove the two connectors that go to the wiring harness.... you should now be able to loosen the grommet and pull the wiring harness through the door via the speaker hole (you should have removed the speaker already) you now must inspect the wiring which is most likely frayed and/or broken now fix the wiring with some new wiring and crimp connectors and heat shrink your work.... should be good as new... have fun getting the wiring back through the door... it will be bigger due to the crimp on connectors etc..... i did a quick write up of this so i hope it is understandable
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
if you can here relays when unlocking/locking check for power at door lock actuators inside doors, if you have power on lock/unlock and good earth from connector actuators are faulty.
if no power on test light when operating check output from central door lock module while operating, none coming out of module then it might need replacing.
check 30Amp power fuse for main relay under bonnet (which goes to pin 8 white/blue on module)and 10Amp gauge fuse in cab(pin 1 blue/red on module),pin 15 is also power when relay is on(red/blue) with test light, and module/ actuators.
check outputs from module pin 3 & 4
that go to door locks
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
SOURCE: 1992 Toyota Camry won't crank
Check the ground cable going from the battery to
alternator, then to chassis. Make sure there is no
rust at the chassis ground wire terminal, and that it
is very tight. The fusible link will be off the alternator
red power cable,usually, but not 100% on that car.
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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