The clutch pedal if touching the floor and it has a difficult time shifting to any gear!

clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired

check that you have fluid in the master reservoir. Bleed air from the clutch system.

If the clutch is correctly adjusted, it will start to engage when releasing the clutch pedal at 1 in. off of the floor. When in Heavy traffic shift trans to neutral while at a stop, take your foot off of the clutch pedal to avoid overheating the release bearing

Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.

Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely.
Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.

at first touch down to floor and cant shift.. then you touch and touch it again before it shift.. try to see the primary and secondary clutch if there's a leak move the boot to see it.. replace one you see the leak.. then bleed the line..

Check the clutch cylinder and make sure you have no leaks and bleed it through good luck colin

I believe your pressure plate is broken and at a minimum will have to be replaced along with the clutch disk.

The clutch master has blown out

you need to bleed the clutch system.. have someone pump the clutch pedal three or four times, hold it down and release the bleeder valve( make sure the person holds the pedal down till after you tighten the bleeder valve back down) repeat this four or five times or till the clutch pedal feels like it did before.. good luck keith...