New timing belt keeps getting loose when it cools down
1992 mitsubishi 3000gt,dohc,3.0L,timing belt broke,bent intake valves in two cyl. on front bank.thats how i bought it,replaced valves,reinstalled new head gasket,installed new timing belt kit with,water pump tensioner pulleys,automatic tensioner,and tool to set belt tension torx,started the car put it in timing mode,timed it to 5 degrees btc,sounded really nice,only ran it for about 5 minuites a few times.after it cools down the belt seem to get slack in it around the water pump,looks like it might jump time if it were started agian,repeated installation procedure agian,still doing the same thing,anybody have any ideas??did i get a defective auto tensioner??please help!
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cannot find a spring tensioner for this car. Is there perhaps a bolt on one of the accessories that will loosen the belt? And it looks like there are 2 belts, rifght? Are they V-Belts? If you say it has a serpentine belt, I will try to track it down.
You just have to try it. The best thing to do is try adjusting the valves. The settings are under the hood. They valves should be pretty close to what the clearances should be. If any are WAY LOOSE you may have a bent valve. If they seem OK, replace the belt. Be sure to replace the balancer belt also.
hi from uk the cambelt timing marks for accent 1.3/1.5 petrol are as follows= the cam cog has a hole drilling between the outer toothed and the central securing bolt this hole at TDC number 1 cyl is at top central and lines up with a V cut in the cyl head at rear of cog ? the crank cog at TDC number 1 cyl is a pop mark on both the cog and on thefront face of engine quite noticable ! these line up and are at approx 12 -30 pm when viewed fit new belt from crankcog in anticlockwise ie crank then cam then tensioner HOWEVER! if you are considering just replacing belt and tensioner ? be warned this engine is an interferance engine that is to say if belt fails whilst driving there may/will most probably be damage to the valves (bent) due to contact with pistons so would advise caution and suggest compression test all cyls after fitting new belt and tensioner and before rebuild completely once valves have bent they will not contact pistons again but you will have serious missfire/s and probably back fire up inlet manifold coupled with failing to start if engine is high milage ? consider removal of cyl head and check? de coke and replace damaged or best all valves then engine will have improved performance and more milesin future hope this helps
Wow, hope all this was not done to fix this problem? If the problem showed up after the timing belt, I would say the timing belt is a tooth off. If it broke a timing belt, a valve might be bent. If all this was done to solve this problem, you need to find a better mechanic to diagnose it.
it depends on car -some r protected against this because the piston is shaped so theres no contact with open valve-u can ask manufacturer. onother way is a compression chec-cylinders with bent valves hav no comp. and of course if u put a new belt on with the timing rite and it dozint start