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If the piston was not compressed completely back into caliper, ( I use a large C-clamp,) then the caliper/brake pads will not fit over the Rotor. Also when you compress the piston back into the caliper be sure the brake fluid resevoir doesn't overflow when the fluid returns during the compression process.
There's a small bleeder valve on each wheel's backing plate. Gently loosen the valve assembly using one hand, while compressing the caliper with the other. Re tighten the valve once the caliper assembly is fully compressed. Do not release the caliper assembly until you have re-tightened the bleeder valve - to do so will **** air into the brake line and require you to bleed the system.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE 2/3 BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER.THEN YOU WILL NEED A LARGE C -CLAMP.OPEN C - CLAMP PLACE C - CLAMP OVER TOP BRAKE CALIPER AND AGAINST THE BACK OF THE OUTBOARD BRAKE PAD. THEN TIGHTEN THE C -CLAMP UNTIL THE CALIPER PISTON IS PUSHED INTO THE CALIPER BORE JUST ENOUGH TO SLIDE CALIPER OFF THE ROTOR.WARNING WHEN FINISHING BRAKE JOB.PLACE COVER BACK ON MASTER CYLINDER.TAKE FOOT PUMP BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL YOU GET SOLID BRAKES.THIS SEATS BRAKE SHOES AGAINST THE ROTOR.THEN RECHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER.
Brake pad replacement does not involve brake fluid loss or air entrainment in the brake lines. It is a good idea to loosen the lid on the master cylinder reservoir while you compress each piston. It may make it a bit easier to do. If you do put a rag around the reservoir in the rare event there is slight spillage. Use a small block of wood or an old brake pad as a protective caul to cover the piston end in the caliper, Use a C-clamp or similar tool to gently compress the piston back into the caliper head. When initially positioning the C-clamp, pay close attention to where it will grip on the back of the caliper so you do not inadvertently damage other parts. Once you are all done with the pads check the reservoir and top off with a little fresh brake fluid if necessary. Be sure to securely fasten the lid to the brake fluid reservoir.
Hello, normally a C-clamp is used to push the caliper back, place an old bad over the caliper piston and position the C-clamp where it contact the old pad in the center. Slowly turn the C-clamp pushing the piston back inside the caliper until its full retracted. Its also helpful to remove the brake fluid cover, it may over run but it is ok
The rear calipers on these models require a special tool that compresses and turns the piston in at the same time -- most parts stores carry this tool. It is called a caliper piston press -- and it installs where the pads would go and acts like a c-clamp,when turning handle it will turn the caliper piston backinto the caliper as it compresses it. Anytime the brake rotor or brake pads are being replaced, the rear caliper piston must be seated (bottomed) to compensate for the new brake rotor or lining. Because the Parking Brake self-adjuster mechanism is attached to the piston, a special seating method is required. The only acceptable method is by rotating the piston back into the bore using Retractor,MILLER Special Tool 8807, . Any other seating method will damage the self-adjuster mechanism. Good luck and hope this helps.
For the rear you need to turn the piston as you crank with the C clamp. It's a lot easier with the right tool. Any good parts store has the tool. The tool to use is a universal brake caliper tool, I picked mine up from Pep boys for $10 bucks. The tool fits on a socket wrench and you turn it clockwise to depress the piston into position.
If everything is apart and you don't have an extra car, just used a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers to get int the groves and twist, no pressure needed.
Tork it down just enough to get the caliper back on. Once it is all bolted back up you will pull many many times on your e-brake handle to tighten the piston back up against the new pad.
Good luck, but try to use the tool.
Use a "C" clamp. Position on the piston and when you tighten it up it will compress the piston in the caliper. Remember to loosen the cap to your master cylinder, as you will be forcing brake fluid back into it. When you remove the "C" clamp the caliper will stay open long enough to align on the rotor.
what you need to do is line clamp brake hose so you dont push dirty brake fluid back into your system..(you can use a pair of needle nose visegrips if you dont own an actual line clamp) loosen bleeder at this point, remove caliper from attatching bracket, with old pad still installed next to piston use a big C-clamp to compress piston, just make sure clamp is centered and compress slowly allowing brake fluid to escape through loosened bleeder... once compressed tighten bleeder and install caliper and pads remove lineclamp....******NOTE******* no need to bleed the system cause of lineclamp procedure... Make sure upon reassembly you use plenty of brake lube on all sliding caliper parts...Good Luck