Question about 1985 Ford F150

2 Answers

1985 F-150 was dying going DOWNhill only, now it will not start.

So a couple of days ago I got a 1985 F-150 for free. It had been sitting for about a year. It is a 302 EFI, Auto, 2wd. At first it stalled everywhere, driving around town, sitting in park, etc. So I cleaned the EGR valve, the IAC valve, the throttle body and replaced the O2 sensor. Voila, it passed smog, barely. Raw gas was AT the allowed limit. Since, I have replaced the fuel filter (on the frame rail), distributor cap, and rotor. I have blue spark to the plugs so I don't believe that is the issue. While the typical suggestions are welcome there is one thing that I believe sets this apart from the normal ''won't start'' threads. After it was smogged it drove fine, around town, idling in the driveway, it was all good. Except when going DOWNhill. I drove it around town on level roads for about an hour, then I drove up hill for afew minutes, all good and running strong. After a couple minutes going downhill it died. Now it will not start a whole day later. It turns over all day, just will not catch and run. It did this before smog as well but always started after sitting for a few minutes. Help please. I'm out of ideas and I would like to keep from spending more money pointlessly. Thank you in advance for any help/insight you can give.

Posted by on

  • 13 more comments 
  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    I am not sure what codes it is putting out if any. There is no "check engine" light. Is there any way to get codes without a diagnostic tool?

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    It is fuel injected. First year of EFI I believe.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    Ok, so much for that spark plug. I didn't smell fuel though at all, not even right by the cylinder. I would normaly think fuel pump or relay but what about going downhill would cause them to fail? Also when I turn the key on the relay clicks and the fuel pump cuts on for a couple seconds. Maybe the inertia switch (downhill only)?

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    Wow, take it to a shop! Why didn't I think of that? Chode.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    Oh, and I replaced the cap and rotor yesterday.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    I take back the chode comment but if I could afford a shop would I be driving around a free 1985 F-150? Come on.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    Ok, I have a friend on the way. These will take some time. I will get back on here ASAP. Thank you for your help by the way.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    I do apologize for the chode comment. I am just a little frustrated. That said I realize this is not an easy fix. I am not looking for an easy solution, though it would be nice for once. I also realize that MOST people on here do not have the background for in depth mechanic work. That does not mean you should assume I don't. At least ask my experience first becuase assuming only makes an "***" out of "u" and "me". I do not trust shops, never have, especially dealers, and especially in this economy. I know cars, I can do the work, I just can't afford to pay someone three times as much as I should to do it for me or the cost of diagnosis so here I am trying to diagnose. I did take it to a shop before getting it smogged, they just ran the trouble codes and tried to screw me. He was going to charge me for a new EGR solenoid (150 bucks) and an EGR valve service (150 bucks), now if you can tell me how he could do both of these things seeing as the EGR valve and solenoid are one piece I would love to hear it (I have since cleaned the EGR valve and it AND the solenoid work fine). Not to mention the $60 he wanted to charge me for cleaning my throttle body (which I also did myself), and the 150 he wanted for an O2 sensor (I got the O2 sensor, diagnostic was 90 bucks anyway so might as well). My point is that now everything the shop that looked at it two days ago said needed to be done is done and it still has problems. I was hoping to find people on here who were more helpfull than a mechanic who pulled codes and replaced things rather than actually troubleshooting problems. I have found someone willing to help me and I will be back in the future, it just wasn't you. No hard feelings.

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    So I pulled the fuel delivery line and did what you described. It barely burped enough gas into the bottle to cover the bottom and then kind of just trickled in after that. Does this mean the fuel pump is bad? I replaced the filter between the tank and pump, but the inline filter between the pump and motor is apparently not intended to be replaced. Also, if the pump is bad do you have any idea why it would work properly on level ground and going up an incline and fail going downhill? This truck also has a filter and pump in each tank. To see if this was the issue I switched tanks. Still no go. Fuel pump?

  • bayley_dl May 30, 2009

    Cool, looks like a fuel pump is about as far as I can take this on my own. I will be checking wires first but probably replacing the pump. Hoping I don't have to drop the tank. Thank you very much for your help. If there is anything I can do like recommend your profile or whatever let me know. Can't thank you enough for your time. I will post when things are running again to satisfy any curiosity, if ever...

  • bayley_dl Jun 02, 2009

    New fuel pump, truck seems to be running fine. I haven't driven it downhill yet though. I did have to prime the system a little differently. I had to turn the ignition to the on position (not starting the truck) a couple dozen times. Each time I would hear the pump whir for a second. First time I tried to start it the thing caught on the first crank. Go Ford.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    Suggested takinf to a shop because it is obvious there is no easy solution for this that we can find from a remote location like this keyboard, u don't have the background to fix it so the Ford dealer would be the next logical step , u should know when to say a pro is needed. By the way i am a Ford dealer tech of 35 years, if i knew an easy answer would give it to u in a hot second.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    take it to a shop.

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 11, 2010

    try to increase your idle, it sounds like it's not getting enought gas.



    is this a cab ? ffule injecte or throttle body ?

    if it's a garb when you coast down hill the lack of vacume crate by your engine will make a back fire and also stall the car.



  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    what trouble codes do u have?

×

2 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Scholar:

    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 58 Answers

No you can't you need a scaner.

tkae out one spark plug, dissable your spark system turn over your car 3 cranks max. if you smeel fule then that's not your problem. also take a look at your rotor on your distribuitor is it out of line ? take it out and inspect it it may have jumped of a poaint if the small plastic alingment guid is broken off.

i had a friend with a GMC typhoon that has this same problem and all he need has a new rotor for his distrib.....

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    nothe ineria switch only kicks in at after a sudden stop. like when you hit some one. this switch is a kill switch to gas. once on it's always on untill it is reset. the only way to know if it's on is to find it and reset it.



    (this is best done with a buddy)

    another fule test to see if your pump has a bad ground or can't produce enough fule, ALSO your fule filter may be blocked. it so remove the dilivery line to the fule rail (when the car is off) and put it into a 1L container. hold the line in the container (so not to cause inviromental and fire hazards) turn the key to ACC (do not turn on the car/truck) the fule pump will fill your cantainer in about 30 -45 seconds. this is perfect. turn off the car(or get your buddy to) and reatach the the line.



    if you don't have a full 1L container a 1/2 leter will work and should fill in 15- 20 seconds. not more then that given time means a blocked fule filter or falty fule pump.



    this test it just make sure you have fule and fule delivery. fule pressure should be cheaked useing a fule gage and it done the same way by tapping into the delivery line. PSI should be 15 at start up and may drop when the car is running. (this is normal).

    i hope this helps isolate your problem.

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    the the cap, take a look make sure when # 1 cylinder it at TDC (top dead center) or as close as you can get it. that the rotor points to #1 aswell.

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    welcome, keep me posted. i'll go look threw some books to see if i can dig anything abnormal up.

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    Yup it's you fule pump. you know it could has been a lose wire that did you in, right now see if you have an out of tank fule pump and look at that first. remeber you car was old and free. there might be debree in the tank blocking the fule pump, thus the down hill and now no start problem.

    but from what you say the pump is to blame.

    you can try to find the wireing from for it and see if it's just a bad conection if not i the best bet is to change the pump.



    and out of tank pump is located most comonly is founf at the front right/left side depending on the set up. there will be a line to what look like a small black pop can (you pump) and a linne going away fomr it. (to your engine. with 2 wires both probly black by now from the roads(note there localtion). disconect the wires and then the pump. make sure you have a bucket ready for the spill. (recomend having the new pump befor you do this,) and then instal the new pump make sure you atach the wires in the correct order aswell.



    then try the fule volume test i just told you about or if you just can't wait start the car. but first prime the system. this means key on for 5 - 10 seconds key off key on for 5-10 seconds key off then start.

    it will be a bad start cuz the system has air in it but after a min it sohuld smothen out and run fine.



    (in take pumps require the dropping and removing of the tank **disconect the battery first** and drain the gas. the in take pump will have a cover and the pump is an assebly of a filter/pickup/pump and hoses, this also a fire hazard and needs to done right, so just change the out of tank pump first and recheck fule volume)



    i hope this solves your problems. and not all shops are bad, they charge for labor and parts and like every bussiness they like money. trust the mechanics but question what they do. ask them why and get them to explain it to you. you don't like what they say just say sorry i don't have the cash for that maybe you can give my advise on what i can do .....

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    also inspect your work for leaks around the lines.

  • Ryan
    Ryan May 30, 2009

    o ya for sure, it's always grate to find out what works and what dosn't. well best you can do is give me a good rating or what not. but i'm just here to help. give a me amessage if you need any more help.

×

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

When I was a kid I was told a story about an older car that had a lot of rust in the gas tank. The man said when he would stop harder than normal the rust in the gas tank would flow to the front and cover the fuel pump hose.

Not sure this applies but I know older F150s are notorious for gas tanks that rust out.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

88' 305 CHEVY WONT START. IT CRANKS OVER , AND FIRERS UP THEN IMEDIATLY DIES. WONT STAY RUNNING. ITS BEEN SITTING FOR A YEAR. IT STARTED AND RAN TWO WEEKS AGO BUT WONT NOW , PLEASE HELP IM ABOUT TO PULL...


Hi Cherles, I'm glad to help!

I'm not there to diagnose it properly but here's a couple thing you can try! (1) When a vehicle sits for a long period of time the gas can go bad. I would make sure the gas is not full of moisture from sitting so long. (2) OH the old years when they had points. I would take the point out and see if they are burnt if they are replace them. Start here and see if this helps. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Cherles.

Sep 12, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changed fuel pump car started ran fine for 2 days while drivning home car died as though not getting fuel changed relays still not go any ideas


I would assume it dies after it warms up right ? If so let it sit for a couple hrs and try 2 start it up , if it starts then your crank sensor is probably bad

Aug 20, 2011 | 1999 Cadillac Catera

1 Answer

91 RS dying


First off, I think you bought a raft of stuff you didn't need on that repair job! The sound of it at this time is that probably the fuel pump is about gone.You need to measure the fuel pressure (engine running) at the fuel rail (the test port looks like a tire valve) above the injectors. The pressure should be in the 45 to 55 PSI range. If the pump is toast, it will be much lower. The pump resides in the fuel tank. You probably have the check engine light on. If the code(s) are read out with a scanner, it will likely point to the fuel pump.

Aug 24, 2009 | 1991 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

My Mazda mx3 starts up idles for a couple seconds then dies.


Before you replace the fuel pump, I would check the cheaiper parts first. Such as fuel filter and injectors.

Jun 17, 2009 | 1992 Mazda MX-3

1 Answer

1985 F-150 will not start.


Stupid and lucky? Not usually my m.o. but this time it is. I had to prime the fuel system. Turn the key on (not start, just on), turn the key off, repeat a dozen times or so, start. The thing started on the first crank. First time getting in depth with fuel injection so I will just think of it as a learning curve.

Jun 01, 2009 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer

Truck won't start


this sounds like crankshaft position sensor, my Cherokee was ding same thing it ended up being crank shaft position sensor. this part costs about $50 and is easy to install.

Dec 02, 2008 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

2 Answers

Car won't run after rain or after it sits for a couple days


you need a tune up new plugs wires and cap an rotor

Nov 07, 2008 | 1990 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

86 bmw L7


I think your problem might be your fuel relay which is situated next to the fuse box in the engine compartment.

Jul 13, 2008 | 1986 BMW L7

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

361 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

74945 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22095 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5467 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...