Question about 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Does not start/crank

My car won't start, doesn't even crank. Sometimes I get one click when I turn the key, other times there's nothing at all. I have a full (new) battery (power windows and locks work like a charm). 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

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First, check your battery with a volt meter...the starter needs far more power than accessories!
Then make sure you have power and good solid connections at the terminals and the other ends of the cables as well. Check power (12v) at the starter main terminal and for 12v at the small connection to the right of it, (with key turned to start)
If you find the problem while doing this, check the alternator for output (running with all accessories on should be around 13v never less than 12 or creeping downward while running) also check belt tension. If clicking is coming from a relay inside the power distribution box, check what it's for (label on inside of cover) if it's for your starter, change it, ( only if battery is fully charged & verified). Also...if all tests show good but starter does not turn change it.

Posted on May 30, 2009

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Your starter has to be replaced.You can remove it and have it checked at any autoparts but yeah sounds like a bad starter

Posted on May 30, 2009

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Check your relays going to the starter. the jeeps are sometimes bad for wiring problems. the key switches are bad to just keep in mind always take the hot post from the battery before you change any of these things .i promise your problem is with in these three hope i've been of some help to you !

Posted on May 30, 2009

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I have 1992 isuzu pup truck.sometimes i turn the key to crank it and there is nothing noise wize,no clicking nothing.the dash lights come on,battery is good.i turn the key another time and it cranks r


you need an ignition switch. One way to figure it out is to turn the key to engage the starter, quickly........over and over, the "catch and start" will happen with no change and suddenly, its engaged. Or, keep the key in the START position, don't let up on it and hit the steering column with your fist, or the steering wheel. It may just be shorting out.

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Yes it could be the key switch. You would need to check for power at the starter when it fails to crank. There is also a neutral safety switch in the circuit.

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If it cranks and doesn't start, you could have a leaky fuel injector. Pull the plugs when this happens, and check them for fuel saturation.

If it doesn't even crank, it could be an intermittent starter.

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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2 Answers

Ignition and/or starter problem.


Immobilizer armed its self

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