A friend replaced my alternator on my 02 ford escape(some friend) he broke the wire harness that plugs directly to the alternator itself now that i have bid him farewell and got a replacement harness my question is in regards to wire colors or which wires (Color wires go to what and is there a way to check this voltage wise i am no machanic(as u can tell) but trying to save a buck by doing the job myself PLEASE HELP and thank you
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According to National Customer survey
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: Alternator, starter, hybrid battery and related systems, regular battery, battery cables, engine harness, coil, ignition switch, electronic ignition, distributor or rotor failure, spark plugs and wires failure.
These are the issues reported
if you have a connector block in the vehicle harness that simply plugged into the alternator , you can get an auto electrician to make up a harness adaptor that screws on to the bolts and plugs into the harness
or if you don't wish to maintain simplicity for another alternator change cut the harness connector off and fit the wires directly to the alternator after talking to an auto electrician to find out what wires go where
really best have him do the job and he can then check to see if the after market alternator you got is internally regulated or externally regulated as they are different and will cause problems if not suitable
An alternator can run on two wires, the thick wire is the supply to charge the battery, direct to positive, via fuse box or starter supply. The thin wire possibly blue on Fords, is the energiser wire from the dash charge light, without this connected the alternator will not charge. If on the new pigtail two wires are thick (30amp) you can ignore one, some vehicles double up on the charge supply wire.
I'm afraid not. The alternators as well as the trucks are wired differently. The black yellow wire on both models goes to the fuse box, but on the 2005 model with the extra wire, the gray orange and brown white wires goe to the engine computer which acts as the voltage regulator. The 2003 computer would not have provisions for those circuits.
Had this code for over 2 years on my 02 escape. FINALLY, found the solution. DONT replace your egr vacuum solenoid (unless you see broken pins on the connector). You can always test the solenoid to see if it still works if you suspect the solenoid is the culprit. Rather, most likely the problem will be in your electrical harness that connects from the solenoid to the pcm. I had no visible broken wires. However, in my case, my female connector harness that plugs into the solenoid was faulty. Replaced it by soldering the wires from a "new" harness that i got from the junk yard. If this fails for you, the problem will be almost guaranteed to be in either your pcm hardware or a broken pin at the pcm connection.
To replace the alternator in your car:
Open the Escape's hood, and examine the belt-routing diagram on the fan shroud. This will show you the location of the alternator and the serpentine belt tensioner.
Pull the serpentine belt tensioner away from the serpentine belt with the serpentine belt tool far enough to allow you to dislodge the belt from the alternator pulley with your other hand.
Unplug the wiring harness from the back of the alternator by hand. Remove the ground harness from the alternator with the socket set.
Unbolt the alternator from the alternator bracket with your socket set. Lift the old alternator out of the bracket by hand.
Compare the old alternator to the replacement alternator before installing the replacement. Make sure they're both physically identical before continuing. If not, take them both to the parts store to match up a proper replacement.
Set the replacement alternator in the alternator bracket by hand. Bolt it in with the socket set. Plug the wiring harness in by hand and bolt the ground harness to the back of the alternator with the socket set.
Install the serpentine belt on the replacement alternator in reverse of how you removed it from the old alternator.
All the best.
Your local auto parts store should have a wiring harness that will clip in to your existing harness. Modern vehicles mostly have a harness coupler under the back of the vehicle you can unplug and plug in the trailer harness without having to cut anything, making the installation very quick and painless. The harness plug may have a plastic lock which you will need to release to separate the two sides of the harness. I recommend putting dielectric grease in both sides of the trailer harness to prevent corrosion from knocking out your trailer lights. The trailer harness kit will have instructions and a diagram to guide you. Hope this helps and please rate my solution!!