Hot air forced into cabin while driving 92 saab 900
When I drive my 1992 saab 900s, hot air is coming into the cabin through the vents but all of the air circulation switches are off. as soon as the car comes to a stop there is no hot air flowing into the cabin, it only happens when the car is in motion.
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Re: hot air forced into cabin while driving 92 saab 900
The air distribution switch controls the air distribution and the fan, distribution switch in the 0 (straight down position) will be off. Car movement forces air into teh body, but with teh fan off there will be no air when the car stops. Does the fan run when the distribution switch is in any other position? it should respond to the speed settings of the fan switch.
There is a vacuum bottle accumulator that assists the distribution switch, sometimes this gets disconnected and the switch settings don't work.
Do you hear any noises if you turn the distribution knob while the car is running? suction noises, or flaps opening?
If not, then you likely have a vacuum problem (check for a white bottle in left front wheel housing, except convertible -> under the spare wheel, tank should have one or two vacuum lines connected to it (one for convertible). A disconnected or leaky line is the most likely cause.
Possible other causes are faulty air distribution switch; burned out fan motor; inoperative vacuum solenoid motors controlling air distribution flaps.
But check the vacuum accumulator first, if under the spare wheel, the lines are easily dislodged.
Re: hot air forced into cabin while driving 92 saab 900
Unfortunately, this is a common issue for the SAAB 900. This is my 3rd one and they all did the same with the eat coming into the vents while driving. What I have done is turn the temp control to cold and that has subsided the heat a little. But, n my experience, heat tends to come into the car at the feet when all of the iar vents up top are closed. I wish I could help more. Leave the control at zero and the the temp dial on cold.
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This is strongly indicative of either a failed cabin heater core or to the coolant lines servicing it, causing a leak. The smoke would therefore be steam. There is no other possible way for antifreeze to get into the vents.
If the smoke really is smoke though and the smell is burning plastic then disconnect the battery negative terminal and get an auto-electrician in to check the situation, as you're at risk of a fire.
To fix the heater is a really labour intensive and fiddly job as virtually the whole dash and crash pad has to come out. If it's an electrical issue then there may be a relatively simple fix, or if the heater blower motor needs replacement then it's almost as major as for replacing the heater core. If you're looking at a professional repair of that magnitude it will likely not make economic sense: depending on the climate they live in some owners just have the heater core permanently disconnected by fitting a bypass to the supply pipes under the hood.
The good news is that there is a Haynes manual for your model which will be of immense help if you wish to save hundreds of pounds/dollars via DIY and there is an active and very useful Saab Owners' Club.
yes this happens its not smoke it is because the cold air hitting hot air it stops after driving it its just cause so hot not harmful or anything gotta remember feon is like -25 degrees but i promise it is not a problem as cools down it will stop but if want to stop instant if have a cabin air filter replace it should stop hope this helps
Your hot air keeps coming since the louver get stuck due to mechanism failure inside the ducting console. It usually is controlled by temperature setting. When the setting has no effect then the engagement is loose. Nee to open the dash vent to check out.
So far I haven't found a cabin filter in my 92 C900 convertible, either! Possibly it might be behind the panel to the right of the air intake and cooling core on the bulkhead, behind the panel held by 4 bolts 2 top, 2 bottom. But I believe there is no filter. The Bentley manual doesn't have anything on it, and no supplier stocks a filter.
If your car is post 1994, then it could be different; those were GM cars and might have a filter.
On Right hand drive models you remove carpet like trim by pushing the centre pin in trim buttons in left hand footwell nearest centre. Remove then take of black rectengular cover. I think it's 2 small hexagon screws. Hope I've remembered that right!. Cheers Clive
you may have blown the head gasket.
check the coolant level,is it low?
if it is ok,check the fan switch on the radiator,change the thermostat,and check that the fan is working.
the fan has to work,saab engines run very hot.
there is a after run fan switch as well that measures engine compartment temperature,and can start the fan even with the car off,so be careful.
have the water pump checked out, i had a van that did the same thing and founf i had a bad water pump it fixed the problem.also check the blower motor to make sure its working right by tapping on it while you have the car running. the car will survive dont worry its going to be one of those two things im pretty sure.
Sounds like the recirculation valve (aka diverter valve) is failing. A lot of turbo cars that have them end up with failures from them, since they're usually cheaply made from plastic, and the diaphragms inside don't hold up over time.
What the valve does is, when you shift, there is a backsurge of boost air that hits the closed throttle plate. The diverter valve (DV) opens and dumps the air back into the intake piping. It's kept closed during acceleration by spring and manifold pressure. When you shift, the pressure drops on the backside of the valve and it opens, venting the excess boost air. If your valve is failing, just the pressure of boost in the intake piping could be pushing it open, causing the acceleration to slow. I'd look into a replacement diverter/recirculation valve.