I have a 2000 Passat and going to have my friend replace the rotors and breaks. I am preparing to fix it but want to know what sizes are the bolts for the calipers sliding pins. If you know the Bolt s
I have a 2000 Passat and going to have my friend replace the rotors and breaks. I am preparing to fix it but want to know what sizes are the bolts for the calipers sliding pins. If you know the Bolt size that holds the caliper in place that would be great too.
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Re: I have a 2000 Passat and going to have my friend...
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
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First, your question has to be translated. Do you mean brake(s)?
If so, and the person who did the brake job resurfaced the rotors, then you're probably hearing the pad lining rubbing the rough rotor surface when you apply the brakes. This is because the machines they use to resurface the rotors don't put the same smooth finish on them like a new one has. The rough surface in contact with the pad lining will make a noticeable sound until the rotors are burnished (worn smooth) from use.
On a side note: It's really not a very good idea to resurface brake rotors. They end up thinner, which makes heat dissapation more difficult. Rotors aren't that expensive. It's always best to replace them rather than resurfacing them.
depending if you have the tools to do the job and pb blaster lock tite and white and dark grease for a beginer it has a rating of 7-8. if you work on cars and know what your doing, then its easy.. first thing is to remove the calapers then remove the calaper mounting bracket spray around the studs and bolts with pb blaster also around the hub and tap around the whole area around rotor dont hit the studs (with hammer) to break the rust buildup this should break rotor free then you may want to clean the rust off so that the rotors seat properly remove and clean new rotors with brake cleaner to get off the film off them (shipping rust retardent) and wipe. spray bolt holes to clear any rust left while removing old rotor and braket and dry. place a small ring of lock tite on bolts holding caliper brackets and let stand till harden or almost hard. replace new rotors install bracket/s and bolts (torq to ? 80foot lb) while replacing rotors replace brake pads, replacing just rotors will over heat new rotors in spots and warp rotors!!! make sure you pull the pins that retain the calipers to the bracket and add light coat of white grease to pins so calipers slides easy and evenly
There is a cheap brake piston retractor kit they sell at Harbor Freight that helps a great deal, because you have to rotate the pistons in the rear calipers, as you push them back in. That is because the rear brakes also act as parking brakes, so can't be allowed to retract. That is all you really need in the way of tools except for the right socket/torex/allen for the caliper bolts. I don't know that exact size/shape of the bolt heads because they change.
You have to remove the wheel and the brake caliper. If it has antilock brakes disconnect the antilock break sensor wire up by the frame and get the wire free form the holders. Remove the big nut on the end of the axel shaft with a 1-3/8 inch socket, now turn the steering all the way to the left and losen the two bolts behind the hub with good 18MM socket. They are usually very tight be carefull not to round the head of the bolts use a good quality 6 point socket. Turn the bolts out about 6-8 turns and stop now turn the steering all the way to right do the same with the other two bolts. Now, take a air hammer with a punch end in it and hammer on the heads of the bolts, a little at time, on all the bolts, evenly until the hub is loose. If you don't have a air hammer a hammer and punch or drift will work. Then remove the bolts the rest of the way and pull the assembly off. Now you have to drive the wheel studs out and remove the rotor. I just described it on 3/4 ton a 1/2 ton might be easier but the principle is the same, I think there are only 3 bolts holding the hub on and the bolt sizes may differ. Also I think you can pull the rotor right off once caliper is out of the way. Sorry about that.
WARNINGTiming belt maintenance is extremely important! The A4 and Passat
model utilize an interference-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If the
timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the
pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and
expensive) engine damage. The recommended replacement interval for the
timing belt is at least every 6 years or 60,000-90,000 miles
(96,000-144,000 km), depending on vehicle usage and engine type. NOTEIf removed and reinstalled, the timing belt must be installed in the same rotational direction as removed.
VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
WARNINGDo NOT turn the engine or camshaft with the timing belt removed.
The pistons will contact the valves and cause internal engine damage.
2.0L (9A, ABA) Engines
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s).
Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the
crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket
should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the
edge of the cylinder head.
With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing
toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve
engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot
on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
Slide the timing belt from the sprockets
Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L 8 valve
Fig. Remove the timing belt cover
Fig. Align the timing marks
Fig. Locate the tensioner
Fig. Loosen the tensioner bolt
Fig. Mark the belts direction of rotation
Check the alignment of the timing marks. On 16-valve engines, the
mark on the tooth should align with the mark on the rear belt cover.
Install the new timing belt and tension the belt so it can be
twisted 90° at the middle of it's longest section, between the camshaft
and intermediate sprockets.
Recheck the alignment of the timing marks and, if correct, turn
the engine 2 full revolutions to return to TDC of No. 1 piston. Recheck
belt tension and timing marks. Readjust as required. Torque the
tensioner nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
If the belt is too tight, there will be a growling noise that rises and falls with engine speed.
o.k... the first thing you have to remember is never panic... because panic get's people hurt... with me. o.k... second thing... i'm going to bet you wore down the rotors on the car... because once you wear the breaks down enough... you're bound to get the rivits dug into the rotors... which isn't good, you know how the old records use to look like... with the groves in it... that's more or less how rivits do to rotors... but not to worry, now... depending on how bad the rotors look... some can be turned and made like new... other's... well... they'll have to be replaced... and that's o.k... new is good, now... if you bough new breaks one week... and put them on... even though the rotors were slightly groved... that's fine... because when you get the money together... and you change the rotors... the breaks will be groved some... but... the good thing is... the new rotors will wear down the breaks and make them flat again... so you don't have to change the breaks againg until it's time... so we're o.k. rotors are betwee $20 to $65... each... not too bad, once you change the breaks... and the rotors... things shoud be fine as far as the break warning light... as far as the changing gears light... don't know man... maybe it'll be fixed when the breaks are... you know... any way... change the breaks... and the rotors... disconnect the battery for 1 minute to clear out any codes... the reconnect... and you should be fine... o.k. later