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Re: 94 olds 88 want start
Yes it can be the security system, find the two all white wires at the bottom of the steering column and cut them and solder the correct ohm resistor in between you will need an ohm meter to measure the resistance of the chip on the ignition key then install that omh resistor to the wires.
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Need a little more info . Security fuse ????? Do you mean anti-theft ? The SECURITY light is lit on the instrument cluster ? Content theft or vehicle theft ?
Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description
The ignition key for vehicles which are equipped with the PASS-Key® II system consists of the following components:
• A typical square ignition key blank
• A resistor pellet
The PASS-Key® II ignition key has the same mechanical key cuts as a non-PASS-Key® II ignition key. You can not service the key blank and resistor pellet separately. There are 15 different ignition key assemblies, each with a different key pellet resistance value.
When you service the PASS-Key® II system, obtain all ignition keys. Verify the proper key code values withJ 35628-A Interrogator.
Steering Column (Ignition) Lock Cylinder
The steering column (ignition) lock cylinder that is used with the PASS-Key® II system contains a set of electrical terminals. The terminals are used to contact the resistor in the ignition key.
The wire routing for the contacts inside the steering column is very critical. When you service the lock cylinder, maintain proper wire routing.
When you replace a steering column lock cylinder, make new keys. The new keys must match the following items:
• The PASS-Key® II code of the PASS-Key® II system
• The mechanical cut of the new steering column (ignition) lock cylinder.
Measure the resistance of the pellet on the key , go to radio shack an buy a resistor of same value an solder into wiring harness .
pulling fuse won't work , power's the PCM as well . Plus software in the PCM won't let it start if it doesn't see input signal from the Theft deterrent module .Take an get it fix right .
Having the vehicle checked for codes should have been the first thing done . Security light on ,a code is stored in the control module that controls the anti-theft system ! This is if you want it fixed right !
Important: If the wrong ignition key is used in an attempt to start the vehicle, a Data Trouble Code (DTC) will be set and the Body Control Module (BCM) will not send a fuel enable or starter enable message to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for three minutes even if the correct ignition is used.
The Pass-Key II® Theft Deterrent system prevents vehicle theft by disabling the starter motor and fuel system. If the Body Control Module (BCM) dose not identify the use of the correct ignition key to start the vehicle, the (BCM) will communicate a message to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which will disable the crank relay and fuel delivery to the engine.
When the (BCM) identifies the use of the correct ignition key (resistor pellet) to start the vehicle, the (BCM) will send a fuel enable and starter enable message to the (PCM) which will allow the vehicle to start.
DTC B2957 Security System Sensor Data Circuit Low
DTC B2958 Security System Sensor Data Circuit High
DTC B2960 Sec Sys Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid
DTC B3031 Security System Controller in Learn Mode
DTC B3094 No Response from ECM/PCM Received
or you can do a by pass that may or may not work ! You could measure the resistance of the pellet on the side of the key , then go to radio shack a by a resistor of the same value ! Then find the wires under the dash that come from the ignition switch ! Solder the resistor into the harness side wires , not going back to ignition switch . The wires break or contacts inside ignition switch do . You could check resistance with ohm meter . Put key into the ignition switch , find those wires i said about before . Check resistance at the wires under dash , is it the same resistance as pellet ?
Original system has a resistor wire between coil + and ignition key, to reduce voltage and thus increase amps to give fatter spark and increase fuel mileage. For HEI system, this resistor wire must not be used, so run new primary wire straight from switch "run" to coil +. There should already be a wire from the starter solenoid to the coil + to supply full 12 volts when cranking to give higher voltage spark to plugs to help jump the gap better for use while starting. The MSD web site has much more info.
It depends on which anti-theft system yours has . VATS , PASSKEY 1,2etc... your vehicle is not new enough to have PASSKEY 3 . There are videos on you tube on how to by pass it . You need to find out what resistance yours has , go to radio shack or some other electronic store an by that size resistor . Then you need to find the right wires under the dash coming from the steering column ,if your ignition switch is in the column .Then solder the resistor to the two wires . Does you ignition key have the pellet on the side ? The two wires your looking for are white inside a yellow or orange sheath , plastic shield .
Have you tried resetting the alarm by locking and unlocking the drivers side door?If you do this a couple of times in some cars it will restet the factory security system and allow the key to work again. Some ignition keys have a resistor built into them and the cars computer is programmed to that resistance. The security system needs to verify the resistance for the key before it will let the car start. What I have read recently about this subject basically states that if you are having problems with a car not starting, won't turn over, no clicking but the car still has power....and everything seems fine in the car....battery, starter, alternator, etc. but the security light comes on in the car and the car eventually does start usually 5 minutes or so later then it is the cars security system that is causing the problem. It doesn't recognize the resistance of the key. It sounds like the security system needs to be replaced or bypassed. A friend of mine has a '94 olds royale 88 that started having this problem a few months ago. The car isn't fixed yet but that is just because I just found this information on the security systems on the internet a few days ago. It looks like it is a somewhat common problem with some of the cars that GM made when they first started installing the Passkey I, II and III systems into their vehicles. I hope this helps and if someone else has more information on this subject I would be interested in hearing about it. And you should check the ignition key switch on the steering colum it will have one of the two wires broken.This sets off the security system which kills the ignition and the fuel pump system.When replacing the key switch make sure you buy one from the dealer most aftermarket switchs are poor quality and if go through the trouble of taking the steering wheel off and parts of the colum do the job right the first time.After you put the new key switch in remember to connect the two wires in the correct electrical terminal.Turn the key to the on position and wait about 10-20 minutes for your computer to recongnize the new switch and program it into it's memory and your car should start right up.
You have resistor in your key that some people call a chip, but it is simply a resistor. The ignition switch reads the resistance and enables the starter and fuel pump if it is correct and all 1990s GM products with the VATS (vehicle anti theft system) sooner or later have trouble reading the key resistance due to wear on the key and the ignition switch. Your solutions are relative to your abilities and finances.
1. Most expensive, take it to a dealer or mechanic and have them replace the ignition switch and keys. Cost from $250 to $400 but leaves the VATS system in original condition.
2. Aftermarket VATS bypass modules are available in the $70 to $130 range but then a mechanic will want about the same to install it. All it really is is a box containing enough resistors that you can switch it to match the combination of the 12 different resistor levels produced in the original keys.
3. Requires a small bit of ability but is relatively easy and extremely cheap. (Cost less than $5 for me to do my '97 Riviera) There are 2 small wires leading from the ignition switch that are usually inside of a small rubbery covering somewhat like heat shrink tubing. They feel different than ordinary wires and come off of the ignition switch seperately from the normal ON/OFF/Accessory/Start wires. You will need to remove the lower steering column cover to gain access. Be sure to disconnect the battery and leave the big yellow wire alone, that's the airbag! I took my key to Radio Shack and measured the resistance of the 'chip' then bought 2 resistors that added up to that amount +5% and a pair of bullnose wire connectors. I soldered them in line with each other and a connector on each end of about a 3" piece of wire and put shrink wrap around them. Then I clipped the two 'reader' wires leaving the switch dead ended and put the matching bullnose ends on the two wires going to the VATS, plugged my wire with resistors in line, zip-tied it in place and now the car thinks the proper resistance is in the 'reader'. All other functions of the VATS system are unaffected. The car starts everytime.
Certainly cheap and effective, but if you wallet outweighs your confident as a do-it-yourselfer, please refer to solutions 1 or 2.
The only other option is to continually wait that 3 minutes for the VATS reset which is not only aggravating, it continues to get worse and more often with time.
The dealership can bypass the security chip no problem. The chip is a resistor and they use a resistor of the same value at the bottom of the steering column to bypass. resistors and soldering are required.
Very small help:
> ,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).
Ballast resistors are special; they have what is known as a 'positive temperature coefficient' meaning that they increase in resistance with temperature.
This provides a very hot spark to start, then a reduction in current as the resistor warms up.
This prevented points and coils from frying from unnecessarily high current.
Early electronic ignition systems still used them, I don't think any modern car has them now.
If you have a larger public library, it might be worth a look on line (if available) or a visit to search for a manual; have found some classics there.
If you find it there - copy it, then RETURN IT! :-)