Question about 1990 Cadillac Brougham

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Stalling Issues My 1990 cadillac fleetwood runs rough when warmed up and stalls when i put it in gear....I've already changed the tps, idle air control valve, vacuum hoses, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor button ANY SUGGESTIONS?

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Was the TPS adjusted to 1.5 volts or checked for that voltage reading beforehand?

Posted on May 30, 2009

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Car barely holds an idle and sometimes stalls when coming to a stop


There could be several causes for your stalling problem.
  • Bad plugs
  • Bad wires
  • Clogged fuel injectors
  • Bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor
  • Bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
A basic tuneup would rule out the plugs and wires. Fuel injector cleaner will clear most clogged injectors. Once ruled out (or if the car is running smooth apart from stalling at a stop) the most common problems are MAF and TPS.
The TPS in particular regulates idling speed under all conditions. Included in this would be while the engine is warm. If your car wants to stall unless your foot is on the gas, I'd lean toward the TPS.

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My 1999 caddilac eldorado feels like it wants to stall while in gear


Several conditions could be the cause of your problem.
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  2. Bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - controls idle speed under all conditions ie warm, cold, + with A/C running.
It's possible to diagnose further by getting a diagnostic test done. Most chain auto parts stores will run a free diagnostic test to obtain a OBDII code (these codes specify which components are either failing or not responding) It is possible that a combination of both the MAF and TPS are contributing to your problem. If the car will idle when cold and only wants to stall once warm and under way, it's more likely than not to be the TPS.

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Replaced plugs, had a tune up, replaced air filter but still idles high in p&n drive is at around 1000 p&n runs close to 2000. it also runs bad... shakes and if in drive and stopped for to long...


The first thing I would have checked is the TPS, ( throttle position sensor ), this is usually the cause of a high idle.

As far as running bad and fake stalling or stalling, there are 2 very common things that can cause that.

1. MAF, ( mass air flow ), sensor. If this is faulty you will have issues like, bad idle, loss of power when accelerating, poor gas mileage, fake stalling and stalling, eventually your engine will not start.

2. Oxygen sensors. Faulty oxygen sensors can cause very similar symptoms as the MAF.

I hope this helps you.

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The reason it's stalling out is because of the adjustments you made to the CAS and TPS. You need to reset the CAS where it was, since when you rotate this sensor, you change the ignition timing. As for the TPS, that also needs to be reset to how it was. The way to adjust the idle on this engine is with a screw on the idle air control valve (IACV). At the back corner of the engine, on top on the driver's side, the IACV is bolted on. If you crouch down next to the driver's fender and look straight in at the IACV (with a flashlight) you will see a screw recessed in there, with the head pointing toward you. That's the idle adjustment screw. With the engine running, AFTER you have reset the CAS and TPS, turn this screw until you are able to set a warm-engine idle of roughly 750 RPM. Messing with TPS voltage and ignition timing is a sure-fire way to stall or blow up your engine.

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On thing to check is the air duct hose that connects from the throttle body to the air cleaner housing. If it gets cracked it will cause stalling problems and very rough idle.

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