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There are several options. You may have a solenoid mounted on the starter, or on the fender near the battery. You may also have a starter relay in the fuse box. If the starter is not getting power, you may also need to check the neutral safety switch.
Go under the car and have a helper hold the key in the start position while you probe the wire to the solenoid for 12 volts, also do a voltage test on the positive battery cable and inspect it at the battery for acid intrusion near the positive battery post clamp, if acid has gotten into the cable the outer insulation will appear swollen and the cable must be replaced, this is a common cause of no starts on Explorers.
If nothing electrical works, the problem is close to the battery. The positive battery cable goes to the starter solenoid on the fender, then to the starter and the fuse box. There are two or three fuseable links which act like regular fuses. One of these wires could be burnt somewhere between each end. You could also have a bad connection with either end of the ground cable. A mechanic would use a meter or test light to check for power in the major circuits.
You most likely have a smoked fusable link wire. I cannot give you specifics because I cannot look it up on the infomation services I use because it is too old. However, most of the older GM vehicles had several fusable links that connected to the starter solenoid and provided power to the fuse block inside the car as well as the headlamps and some of the engine control circuits.
If you do find one burned, you have to figure out what gauge wire is in the fusable link. You can then buy some fusable link wire to match at most auto parts suppliers. DO NOT replace a fusable link with regular wire.
Try jumping it, sounds like the battery can be dead. But there is a solenoid on the firewall I believe the left side inner fender (in the engine compartment) you can turn the ignition on and jump the two leads with a screwdriver and see if the motor turns over. Remember this is a huge motor with high compression and the glow plugs have to fire to start. Takes a lot of juice to get it going (thats why it has 2 batteries). Make sure you have charged batteries. If not charge/jump the truck. The starter can only be tested off the truck, a solenoid if bad only cost a few bucks ($20-$30) but they don't fail too often
The Ford 7.3L diesel engines require a LOT of power to crank them over. The FIRST thing to check would be the battery and battery cables. If you are absolutely certain that these are in good condition, then you must check for power coming from the starter relay (mounted on the right fender apron) to the starter solenoid (part of the starter assembly)
The "click" you are hearing is either the starter relay or the starter solenoid, or BOTH at the same time. If the starter relay is providing the correct power to the starter solenoid, then the starter assembly must be replaced. If the starter relay is not providing the correct power, then most likely the starter relay is bad.
You just have to check for the proper current at the proper places and the problem will be found. Please note that your truck is also most likely equipped with 2 batteries. One battery being bad can cause BOTH of them to not work properly. So when you test your batteries, it is best to disconnect them and test each battery on its own merit.
Some starter solenoids are mounted on the fender near the battery and some are on the starter itself.
Typically the ones mounted on the fender have two larger posts and one smaller post. For the larger posts: One connects strait to the positive post on the battery. The other connects strait to the starter. The smaller post connects to the neutral safety switch which connects to the start position of the ignition switch. Here is a diagram. Make sure the solenoid is grounded good.
For the solenoid that is mounted on the starter: Connect the positive post of the battery to the large post on the starter. Connect smaller neutral safety switch/ignition switch wire to the smaller post.
Your starter draws more amperage than nearly anything else in the car...Don't assume that the battery is charged unless you test it with a voltmeter. It must have at least 12v and not drop below 9.5 volts under a 200amp load. If battery tests good, check the connections to make sure that the terminals and cable contacts are clean and secure. If good, make sure that engine and starter ends of cables are also good. If clicking is coming from the starter, then it's likely that the solenoid is bad...Best to change as starter and solenoid together because brushes inside starter are usually found to be worn out just about when solenoid fails. Don't change the starter 'till other testing has been done. Some systems use another fender or firewall mounted relay. If that is making the click, change that first.
Starter gets his kick from the battery thru a solenoid, which is either mounted on the firewall, fender or next to the starter, If AZ says starter is OK, then it has to be the solenoid or a fuse for the starter relay )which drives the solenoid) or the relay itself. Check the relay part no and see if one of the others in the relay/fuse cabinet will work as a sub. Test and see if that is the problem, then go buy one ;-)