Question about 1965 Ford Mustang

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Carb Problem/ Identification

1999 ford mustang has spark and fuel but wont fire. what could be the problem???????? Same problem here, I have spark, correct gap, timing is good, fuel pump is working. I get fire for one or two seconds if I spray starting ether or dump a little gas straight into the carb. So the carb isn't giving any gas, I plan to take off and rebuild with a kit. Although I am unable to identify my carb as the tag has been ripped off. All I can get off the carb is "motorcraft", 1.21 venturi size, and a "6" on the corner, and a "2MFF" towards the bottom. I have a 65 coupe type "A" 289 engine. The carb on it looks to be a motorcraft 2100 1.21, yet when I tell them at the parts store they say this isn't enough information? They come up with 30 different kits and none of them are motorcraft. Also I really wanted to just get the car running for selling purposes, but the current carb is a 2v, but the intake manifold on the car is capable of a 4 barrel carb, should I just upgrade? If so would it be as simple as taking the adapter plate off, or would you have to add in more linkage and other stuff? Not really the best car mechanic, I have more experience in aviation and jet engines. Thanks for any help.

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    suggest u use premium question option, this post is unlikely to get answered here.

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I have a 70 ford mustang originally a 2brl and now a 4 brl. No additional linkage was needed. You may have to re-route some vacuum lines. Since you have no tags on your carb you will have to take it to a carb shop. Mine was that way and I jacked around with Autozone, Napa, and O-riellys for2 weeks. Decided to take it to a carb shop and he just looked at it and knew exactly what it was.

oh by the way your carb does need re-built. My 70 did the same thing with ether or gas. Any carb shop can bench test it and tell you for sure for about $20

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 593 Answers

SOURCE: 1965 Mustang 289 2v 2100 carb. The car runs fine

It sounds like the choke may not be opening completely. Check the choke tube from the choke assy. to the exaust manifold. The tube often breaks off at the manifold. There was a repair kit from a co.
called toke.(it was the 60's)The part# was ux-1 it had a new copper tube+sleeve and a fitting, that you would place over the broken piece in the manifold tap
it with a hammer and it knocks out the old + installs
the new fitting. Push in the new tube and install the
other end into choke assy. If it's an elec.choke check
the voltage at the wire to the choke assy. it should be between 7-12 volts, if not check for a fuse in line or at
the fuse block. I don't recall exactly where it is. But if
neccesery you can run a new wire with a 20amp in
line fuse, from the choke plug to the S(stator)connection on the alternator. This will provide enough
juice to expand the bimetal spring in the choke housing. And only when it's needed. When the engine is running..Also the choke can be adjusted
whether it's the tube or elec. You can adjust the choke spring by turning the black plastic cover.
There should be 2 arrows pointing clockwise+counter
clockwise. After the choke is fixed you can fine tune
it by loosining the 3 screws and turning to rich or lean as needed. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 31, 2010

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