Question about 1994 Toyota Camry

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Fuse that operates window, a/c , meters blows when driving

Fuse 18 in the driver side kixk panel keeps blowing in 1994 totota camry.

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  • bjacn5 May 28, 2009

    it blows when you drive the car. I can operate the windows and a/c when the car is in idle.

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  • Toyota Master
  • 450 Answers

Try and take not when it blows to what is on a/c or blows when using windows or straight away
can put head light globe into fuse location head light lights up bright when short is present so you can then locate problem

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • Steve Hurc
    Steve Hurc May 28, 2009

    vehicle has short in it in one of the circuits that this fuse powers up if not sure how to find take to auto electrician

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1 Answer

Fuse 18 keeps blowing


Once a fuse blows,it does so for a reason
Common Sense
In a 60 year driving career you have maybe 6 fuses blow
Replacing them 5 out of 6 time they blow again
Ask yourself why
You need to find the most logical item in that circuit
& start testing & that usually requires a wiring diagram
or you have no map or now where to start any testing.
Something overloaded a circuit find it & replace it or
resolve the wiring issue

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My fuse for my power window on drivers side keep blowing


take off the door panel and unplug the motor and try again could be a bad motor

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Power window blows fuse


Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

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1 Answer

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you got a grounded wire. check the wiring in the back of the radio if its custom radio i can almost gaurentee thats what it is. however electrical aint my best area. lemme know if i helpd any.

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Toyota Camry 1994 Main Fuse keeps blowing


-if your fuses are blowing
-the problem is in the wiring
-because if too much amperage flows through the fuse will blow
-there's probably a short to ground somewhere or high resistance after the fuses causing it to draw more amps

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1 Answer

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Can you hear the moter or do interior lights dim when pressing button? If so remove door panel and lubricate tracks and rolers using lithium grease lube only the tracks that do not come in contact with glass.

Check the connections at the switch and at the moter with a volt meter if there is power than time for a new moter. no power than check at drivers side switch. If no power there and fuse is ok you have a open in wires and will have to trace entire circut

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1 Answer

The fuse i think


The fuse box for that fuse would be located behind the drivers side kick panel. its a 7.5 amp fuse that allows things like the heater fan, overdrive, seat belts and gauges to function. I had the same problem and checked the fuses visually - not a good idea since it did not blow in the middle. took me a while, but i finally used and ohm meter and found it. Hope this helps out.

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