Question about 1998 Lincoln Town Car

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Loud clunking noise when i turn a corner both sides rear

Someone said the rear stabilizer bars were bad. When i turn a corner a loud clunking noise is heard in the rear of the car and ir rattles whenever you go over a bump, railroad tracks, anything.

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Check the sway bar kinks for play both rear wheels will have to even ramps work good if you have them if the is any play in the links it wil rattle also check for play in the bushings that the bar goes threw tis will also give you the noise you complain of

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a 2004 silverado 1500 and have clunking in rear end and was told I have excessive back lash in ring and pinion gears how do I fix that and how much would it cost?


suggest that you talk with a diff reconditioning specialist center
if you have excessive pinion to ring gear clearance the diff will be making terrible noises not a clunk
what you have is worn side gear washers in the diff carrier and that is not essential to repair unless you get diff noise on turning corners
All diffs have play in the diffs that most people say is pinion /ring gear problems when it is not
the clunk noise comes from engaging a gear and the diff housing reacts to the load ( radius rod bushes , stabilizer bar bushes etc), the side gears take up the clearance, and the
"U " joints or cv joints take any wear
Best advice is--- if all you have is a clunk ( check everything outside the diff first) and the diff runs quiet under acceleration or deceleration, DON'T fix what ain't broken

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1 Answer

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Loud clunking noise WHERE in the Voyager when WHAT is "on full lock"? It might help to be a little more descriptive.

Knowing Chrysler minivans the way I do, I would assume that you are chasing noises in the front steering and suspension. Those are notorious for all kinds of noise in the front suspension. You need to check the stabilizer links, the stabilizer frame bushings and the upper strut bearings - these are the most common "noise-makers".

If it is making the noise when you have the wheels turned hard to one side and accelerating, then it is most likely a bad CV joint.

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1 Answer

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most common causes are rear stabilizer links,or sway bar bushings. also check exhaust hangers(rubber mounts) or heat shields.

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a clunking clanging noise sounds very much like your stabilizer bar end links and bushings. you have a thin rear "sway" bar on the rear of your odyssey. this can cause a whole lot of noise. grab each side and pull/push. if it feals loose, replace the end links and bushings.

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Most definately some bushing. Just check all of them, make sure all the bolts are tight. Jack the car up and get underneath it and start wiggling the suspension. Grab the wheel and shake it. Try to find the corner or side of the vehicle that the sound comes from.

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Hi dtpp,
You are going to have to crawl around under the jeep for a few, If the noise is just that, a noise and the tires don't seem to catch or no grinding going on, look for your exhaust pipe possibly lose or the track bar..stabilizer bar, shocks or any broken bolts..any connection that just doesn't look right..You don't need the vehicle up on a lift to check this stuff. If you don't see anything right in your face use a jack and lift the rear of the jeep, put it on stands from the frame so the rear end is free to the air, be careful about not being under it and just start wiggling stuff, you should be able to spot the sound. Good luck and if you can have someone help you, easier to spot as well as safe.

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98 Lincoln TC,Cold starts fine ,runs good until warm, then shuts off. No codes,Cranks ok, have spark, PATS ok. No fuel pressure, cant hear fuel pump prime,New Fuel relay. jumped fuel pump - works. I do not hear fuel pump prime up, do not have fuel gauge, but pressing on valve in fuel rail- no pressurized fuel. Fuel regulator seems ok, not leaking / vacuum line dry as a bone. If I let it set for 15 min , it will start up again, but for a few minutes then dies out. If I let it set overnight it starts up perfectly and runs until operating temp is reached then stalls/stumbles, and shuts down. Vacuum is good while cranking, even with no start, Checked Inertia switch in trunk, it is not tripped. I have seen Ford TSB summaries' that mention issues like this , but I am not able to see to description. A point to add, the MAF sensor was cleaned, then I decided to replace it and did not make a difference. I do not have any stored codes, and the PATS is working fine, typical 2 second flash from and once key is inserted a 3 second steady light, then disappears. I have seen the TSB mentioning C103 Connector, it looks fine, I swapped out fuel pump relay with ac relay, still no difference.mention of wires around battery, do not know where to start. in dash service engine light and odometer is normal, seen other posts the say they only have lines, but mine is ok. the start of all of this , I washed engine with regular garden hose, ( not using pressure washer).also in the mean time, rear window defroster stopped working as well, can not say for same reason, but a mention.My problem started after washing engine. this is one of four Panther platform vehicles I owned with exact 4.6l w code engine, which I rinced down before. The only sensor I can think of is Oil pressure , or a corroded wire

Feb 27, 2017 | 1998 Lincoln Town Car

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