Question about 1997 Nissan Pathfinder
My pathfinder idles too high and I want to change the idle air control valve. I've been told it's near the firewall. Do I have to remove the whole intake to access it, or is there an easier less costly way of doing this? Help!
It's on the throttle body. Here's a Quest with same 3.0L engine. These often need cleaning with carb or throttle body cleaner
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve When the engine (6007) is running but not at idle, the throttle valve controls the amount of air admitted into the engine. The powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) increases the fuel injection output in proportion to the increased airflow to achieve the appropriate air/fuel ratio. During idle, the throttle valve is almost fully closed. It is therefore necessary for the idle air control system to supply air for combustion during idle. The idle air control (IAC) valve allows a metered amount of air to enter the intake manifold (9424). The camshaft position (CMP) sensor detects engine speed and sends a signal to the PCM. The PCM sends a duty cycle (On/Off) signal to the IAC valve which allows additional air to enter the intake manifold. Air is added by the IAC valve to maintain the set lowest idle speed at which the engine can operate. The idle speed adjusting screw allows adjustment of the airflow into the intake manifold.
Fast Idle Control (FIC) Solenoid The fast idle control (FIC) solenoid helps maintain a constant idle speed while the air conditioning is operating. When the air conditioning is turned on, the front climate control panel sends out two signals. One signal is sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) to engage the A/C compressor (19703). The second signal is a ground signal sent to the FIC solenoid relay, to engage the FIC solenoid. The FIC solenoid supplies additional air to adjust the increased engine load.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
For the 3.3 engines you have to remove upper intake manifold.for the 3.5 engines you have to remove air intake duct to replace IAC
Posted on Jan 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Removing an oil pan
Many cars require that you push the brake pedal before it will turn the starter. Keep brake pedal pressed. then try to start. If it still does not start, this still could be the problem. When the break pedal is pressed a switch is clicked on. It could be that the switch is bad.
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
Check throtle position sensor behind the TBI. Run mode 4 in the computer diagnostic checks to see what codes is giving.
By the way, if any of the sensors give a code, don't spend money replacing them. They are all inter related. If one fails you will get codes for the others also. What you really need to do is above suggestion and then trace the circuits for continuity. Am assuming you know how to run ECM codes in the computer. Eliminate codes one at a time, and re-run mode 4, until all codes have been eliminated.
If code 55 is in the computer. Replace the whole TBI. After 20 years of use, they appear to corrode inside. But try the below first in the interest of saving money.
You might want to remove the TBI. Don't disturb the pre heater underneath the TBI if is stuck to it.
Take choke cleaner (Pep Boys or Autozone) Carb and Choke Cleaner in yellow can. There is an opening in the pre heater for the Air Flow Sensor, liberally spray it with the plastic little nozzle attached to the can and ensure all the gook in the passage way is clean, spray until no more junk comes out. Remove mass air flow sensor from TBI before doing this. You don't want to damage it. Spray the passage way from MAFS side also. While you have the TBI off, look at the port for EGR VALVE see if its clogged up with Carbon. Clean them out you can remove the carbon by scraping with a phillips head or bladed screwdriver. Two holes leading to the EGR Valve. They are about 1/2 inch in diameter round holes. Flush with the carb cleaner. If you really want to do ir right, remove the EGR Valve, clean it also and check to make sure its working. If NG replace it. Your EGR valve might be getting stuck due to carbon in the open position thus letting to much air into the intake manifold thus cunking out. Or the EGR has a leak. Check with vacuum pump by attaching VP to EGR. It should hold steady with 20 - 30 vacuum on the EGR. If it does not hold, throw it away and buy a new one.
You mentioned you replaced the MAFS. Remove it again and look in the element. Is it Wet or Dry?
It should be dry. Don't touch it. If its wet, then your air passages are clogged in the TBI. While you have the TBI out, spray all the vacuum fittings with the carb cleaner ensure they are free of blockage. Replace everything back carefully. Your truck should idle at 850 rpms if its standard and 700 if its auto. + or - 50 rpms. 850 is ideal. Let me know what happens after all of that.
Last but not least. Check the hose to the PCV Valve, ensure is not cracked, if damage, replace the hose and replace the PCV Valve. Ensure all vacuum hoses have no leaks and are correctly routed, especially the EGR valve one. From the manifold connect hose to center vacuum port or bottom port on the Solenoid Cut off Valve. Connect port B (Middle one to the EGR Valve.) Connect Port A (top one) to the Air Filter Canister. With the car on there should be continuity between port C and and B. You can check that with the vacuum pump. Gun the engine and see if you get a momentarily reading on the gauge if yes the port is good. If NO the Cut off Solenoid is NG. Find a working one in junk shop they are $100 bucks at the dealer. (highway robbery) If you are in PA go to Harry's U pull it. 5 bucks, each take the vacuum pump so you can check it before buying. The suffer from corrosion in the ports. Hope this solves your problem. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 29, 2008
SOURCE: I have a code P1447
My experience with my own 97 Pathfinder was that the EVAP canister internally ruptured, spreading charcoal pellets throughout connected portions of the vacuum system.
The tech replaced the EVAP canister and blew lines out with compressed air, but the P1447 code came back.
A few weeks later I had the tech check why the P1447 code came back, and he determined that the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve had failed, as it did not pass certain resistance measurement tests. He replaced the valve, $288 + labor, blew a few remaining carbon bits out, and the problem seems to be fixed.
I kind of choked at the $288 price though, and took the part home. Two screws to pop it open. Turns out it was filled (surprise) with pulverized charcoal dust and would not operate.
The valve is a little rotating magnet that turns and screws a lipstick-style plunger up and down. I tapped out all the carbon and then started turning the bearings, which were crunchy sounding. However, the carbon eventually gave way to the bearings and they're spinning just fine now. I haven't tested the part, but from the simplicity of it, I have no doubt it would get me down the road many more miles.
Posted on Feb 02, 2011
If it is the IAC then buy one. once you know exactly what it looks like then it should be easy to see it connected to your throttle body. Look at the new one to find out where potential bolt holes are and now you know where they are on the car as well. If the check engine light is still on after you replace it try disconnecting your battery cables for a few minutes and it should reset your computer and turn the light off.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
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