Question about 1995 Honda Accord

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Cv half shaft 1995 honda accord

Bad tow resulted in damaged outer boot driver's side with result of cv joint noise to oibvious joint failure. don't know how to detach the half shaft and what else is necessary to complete the job internal to wheel. trying to access a manual for explication but not sure that will happen

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  • smelm0 May 27, 2009

    this is a 1/2 cv shaft which detaches midway inward to the tranny the attachment point is round fastener and I'm not sure exactly how to separate it at this point, if it needs a special tool etc.

  • smelm0 May 28, 2009

    no. the cv half shaft I'm referring to is on the driver's side. the entire axle , that is, from wheel to tranny is in 2 parts which is sold at aftermarketers like autozone as separate parts. you can check at their site and a visual is supplied. the 2 part shaft is joined in the middle with a roundlike fastener which I would prefer to unfasten rather than to buy the inner boot and remove at the tranny which I did one time on another car with a lot of difficulty but on a lift. now I'm on the ground. so I'm really looking to make this as easy as possible. if that's a possibility. also does any one know of a free online manual resource?
    thanks for feedback



  • smelm0 May 30, 2009

    sorry to be corrected. but bought the part at autozone and its one whole axle from wheel to tranny. the manual from chilton calls for removal of the bottom ball joint which I think is not possible here since the top of the joint almost contacts the bottom of the cv joint. also the nut is frozen on so I going to take brisnod's advice and go for the top ball joint and I think I might be able to tilt the rotor forward and down, hopefully thus clearing the axle from the wheel. will keep you abreast. finished for today and will reconvene mon 6/1.

  • smelm0 Jun 04, 2009

    well, I replaced the 1/2 cv shaft with a replacement one which didn't come with a circular-like fastener in the middle.why it's called half shaft is beyond me here's how it's done:
    1. remove hubcap and hammer out locking-indent on axle nut to roundness and then just loosen 36mm axle nut while wheel is still on the ground.you will need a breaker bar most likely.also loosen lug nuts.
    2. jack the wheel up as high as possible and jack stand it.
    3.remove tire and totally remove axle nut.unfasten tie rod end. unfasten upper and lower ball joints. pull rotor outward to release cv spline from the inner wheel bearing. support rotor,brake lines and abs cord on something suitable so you don't damage anything. you will have to remove an abs fastener and a brake fastener also.
    4. get under vehicle and locate inner cv boot where it enters the tranny.with a smallish pry bar against the metal housing of the cv, pry out the inner splines from the tranny.pull the cv shaft outward through the wishbone of the upper control arm.
    5. place the new shaft with greased ends through the wishbone of the upper control arm. get under vehicle and align the inner boots spline to the entrance to the tranny and ram the joint into the tranny till you hear the retaining ring pop, indicating that the shaft is fully seated in the tranny.
    6. reverse order and you're done
    7. the chilton manual was useless for this job and again both ball joints nned to be undone. good luck to other mechanics

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  • 78 Answers

Well this is not to hard.Lift the car up on the bad side remove the wheel.Make sure you use a jack stand on the unibody cause your suspension has to be free.Remove the 32m nut that is in the middle of the hub.Then remove the bolt that goes to the top a arm you can make it come lose by hitting it with a hammer on the side of spindle not on the threads as you will ruin it. Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the brake line to spinde.the spindel can now be pulled towards you and pop out the side where you removed the 32mm nut then go under the car and use a big screwdriver or pry bar to pop off the shaft from the tranny side.Just stick it between the shaft and tranny and pry it putting enough pressure till it comes right off.To installe just reverse the procedure.makin sure you put the shaft in al the ways on the tranny side till its flush some times you have to slam it on there enough to go in.Good luck let me know how it went

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • Danny May 28, 2009

    You are talking about the passenger side right.It also has a support that is round that is bolted to the block

  • Danny May 30, 2009

    there isx a c lip that holds it on just remove the clip

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2 Answers

How do I decide if it's the drive shaft or the CV joint?


It is easier to change the whole half shaft than it is to change just the CV joint.

Aug 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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My volvo s60 03 isnt making any noise when I turn right or left, and there is no visible problem other than the boot being torn and grease being all over the place. Is it possible my boot is just torn and...


Yes, that's possible, especially if the joint hasn't had enough time for dirt to get inside the joint. If you remove the half shaft, you can put a new boot and clamps on it, with new grease supplied with the boot. Only thing is, the joint has to be partially disassembled, it is very messy, and takes a couple of hours. An alternative is to buy a remanufactured half shaft with both joints (inner and outer CV joints) checked for wear and new boots installed. This half shaft is ready to install-the cost of these remanned shafts is actually less than the price of one new CV joint- about $70 for a chevy half shaft as an idea of prices.

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1 Answer

Have a plymouth breeze, every time I turn left it was making a loud clicking noise, now it sounds like a really bad loud scrubbing noise when I turned and drive starting last night. So it I cant drive it....


Probably a bad CV joint on one of your drive axles to the front wheels. You have two drive axles coming out of the transaxle, one to each front wheel, and both have an inner CV joint where they enter the transaxle, and an outer CV joint where the axles fit into the wheel hub. (A CV joint is really like the old U-joints, serving the same purpose.) A clicking noise on turning is usually a badly worn outer CV joint. The cheapest fix is to buy a remanufactured half-shaft for your car. That is the axle shaft with both CV joints at each end inspected and reconditioned with new grease and CV boots installed. You need to know which side is bad before buying. The half-shaft is sold ready to install. Someone with good mechanical skills will need to remove the old one and replace it with the new reconditioned axle shaft, or half shaft as they are also called. The last time I bought one (about two years ago) the cost was reasonable- about $65.00. That is less than the cost of one new CV joint.
Hope this helps you out.

Mar 21, 2012 | 1997 Plymouth Breeze

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When turning corners while driving my 91' honda accord lx, it started making a loud clicking noise, what could cause this?


Your outer CV joint is blown. You need to replace this soon - if the joint fails, the car will not move.

Jul 16, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

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There is a knocking sound when turning, I have a 2006 accord with only 42k+ miles. What are the possible scenarios, with so few miles???


Knocking noises when turning are quite often associated with the outer CV joints on the front axles. These joints have a boot on them. If that boot ruptures or is damaged the grease inside leaks out and water and dirt get in ruining the joint resulting in a noise when turning. Check both outer CV joint boots for tears or damage. The fix is to replace the joint or complete axle.

Apr 17, 2011 | 2000 Honda Accord

1 Answer

What is that knocking sound when I'm turning left?


it usually signifies a broken CV joint. check the drive shaft for the left side. the outer rubber boot is probably torn, this allows grease out and contaminants in. It is wise to replace the drive shaft as an assembly instead of just replacing the outer CV joint- they usually come with a lifetime warranty.

Nov 01, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

I just asked this question a minute ago but I want to clarify a little more. Got a buddy of mine who is having a car issue and was hoping you guys could help out. We are wondering if bad CV joints can lead...


Much of the symptoms you describe sound like a CV joint. I would take it to the dealer and insist that it be fixed... What is bothering me though is under normal operating conditions, CV joints and boots are engineered to last upwards of 150,000 miles. Some go the distance, but a lot reach the end of the road far short of their design life. According to one major aftermarket supplier of replacement axle shafts, CV joint shafts are typically being replaced at anywhere from 70,000 miles to 130,000 miles.

Read this and see if you agree...
SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:

  • Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.
  • A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.
  • A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.
  • A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.
  • A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.

Dec 12, 2009 | 2000 Honda Accord

3 Answers

Average cost for a cv joint on honda accord 1998


there are tow types, with ABS and W/O ABS, they come as a half shaft assmebly, this is a axle and CV joint together. here are the 2 part numbers for left and right axle with CV joint. Price and Part s are from www.rockauto.com, the lowest price on the internet I could find, very fast shipping.

THESE ARE FOR THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604153 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/ABS
$42.99

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604152 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/o ABS
$42,99

THESE ARE LEFT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604155 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/M.T. w/ABS
$53.79

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604150 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/A.T. w/o ABS
$51.79

Oct 25, 2009 | 1998 Honda Accord

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