Question about 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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Ac switching off engine

Can you please help me as i ve been trying to solve the problem... now the problem is that when i switch on the ac the engine will go very slow and when i stop in traffic and i put it idling it, the engine will go off ... why can you solve it for me please....

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The ac is bad and needs to be repaired. The clutch on the front of the ac pump sounds like it is your problem. Take it to a shop and have them give you an estimate for repair and they will tell you what is wrong exactly.

Posted on May 27, 2009


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About the only thing that you didn't list is the cooling fan. Are you sure that it's working properly? Drive the car until the engine starts to get hot. After awhile you should hear the cooling fan come on. After you have driven the car for a while, park it and open up the hood. If the upper radiator hose is almost too hot to touch, then check to see if the coolant fan is running. If it isn't, then turn the AC switch to "AC MAX". If the fan still doesn't come on, then a malfunction is indicated. Try to locate the fan control relay and swap it with another relay that has the same part number. Use a relay that will allow the engine to run. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and see if the fan comes on after switching the AC switch to "AC MAX". If the fan now operates, then replace the relay. I hope this is helpful to you. Thank you for trying If this does not solve your problem, then post a comment and I will respond by getting into more advanced diagnostics.

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Hey bro....I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. Two problems exist. #1 my ac doesn't engage when the switch is in the cool positions. I've checked the control voltage at the Accumulator, 13.5 in and 13.5...

Part of the reason you are having trouble trying to understand why your A/C will not engage is because you are not working with an "Old School" system where the low pressure switch at the accumulator actually cut the power to the A/C clutch itself. You are working with a computer-controlled system where the low pressure switch grounds a "sensing" circuit to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM controls the A/C clutch by activating the Compressor Clutch Relay, which is located in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Box.
The secondary side of the relay (the part that actually turns the compressor on) can be diagnosed with a simple test light. To verify the circuits on the primary side (the part that the computer controls) requires a scanner with software capabilities to go into the PCM and command the relay ON. The circuits from point A to point B can be verified with a digital Volt/Ohm meter, but proper operation of the PCM can only be verified with a scanner.

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As for your check engine light...The ONLY way to find out why the light is coming on is to scan the PCM with a scanner and retrieve the fault codes and diagnose the system accordingly. I would say that you are probably correct in assuming that it may be EVAP-related if you are smelling gas fumes and getting fuel spilling out on the ground. My recommendations on this is to get it diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible before you blow something up. Gas fumes are nothing to play with. Not only are they highly explosive, but they can be extremely toxic as well. We won't even get into the fact that it is obviously dumping HUGE amounts of hydrocarbons into the atmosphere (which is the reason for the EVAP system to begin with). Then there is the fact that if these hydrocarbons are getting out of your fuel tank, that means that your fuel (AND YOUR CASH) is evaporating.

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