Question about 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab

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Electrical door lock try to work but they don't especially rightside.

My door locks don't always work especially right side when we put the truck into gear and start to move they are suppose to lock but it tries but won't lock they are electrical.

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You have a defective door lock actuator in the door. Remove trim panel and replace.

Posted on May 27, 2009

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Common problem. definitely the actuator unit on each door. With a lot of cleaver skill they can be repaired, but i opted to replace mine and ordered them online. Shop around the internet for a reputable dealer and replace for around $20 dollars each or you will pay over $60 each plus labor ($95) at a repair shop.

Posted on Oct 20, 2012

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Posted on Aug 15, 2011

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driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.

Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.

You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
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In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
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If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.

If this is an electrical problem
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The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
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IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
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Well, it is hard to say for sure without some electrical testing. It could be that you need to buy a whole bunch of door lock actuators - especially if you started losing one door lock at a time. If all of the door locks started acting up all at the same time, there is most likely high resistance in one of the door lock main power circuits - like the one that comes from the ignition switch or from the keyless entry module (if equipped).
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