Question about 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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1997 FORD F250 XLT 4WD - Had a hard brake pedal with hardly any brakes while standing on them. Replaced booster and wheel cylinders at same time now the pedal is mushy and no brakes.

Any ideas. I have a 1997 F-250 HD deisel supercab 4x4, it has a brake booster not the hydro. I replaced the brake booster since the pedal was rock hard and not much happening even when you stand on the brakes. My helper replaced the wheel cylinders on the drums as we did an inspection at this time and he thought they were not moving free enough. At that time he broke both brake lines by stripping out the lines going to the brake wheel cylinders. I replaced the lines and bled the brakes. But now have a totally mushy brake pedal with no brakes. Is it possible to still have air in the lines or could there be another problem. I do have suction at the brake booster and the new booster seems ok.

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  • rob_accent May 28, 2009

    This is a follow up to the above question Re: 1997 F250 HD over 8500 lbs 4x4 with power brake booster hard pedal then mushy......response to above question.... My helper put in the wheel cylinders and reput the brake shoes back in before I looked at them. The problem with that was my helper thinks he know what he's doing. I was pretty sure I bled the brakes properly so I took the drums back off. Somehow he was able to get the pads on correctly but put the adjuster in backwards and the lower spring in backwards. Somehow the adjuster fell off the shoe and when I adjusted them out I was hearing the metal of the adjusting screw hitting the drum and shoe. Well I also had taken it for a test drive prior to re-checking my helpers work. So today I put on new rotors and shoes and hardware myself. Now I'm back to square one... the stiff brake pedal. So I took it up to the local auto guy and he tested the vacuum pump and I was right not enough vacuum. Now I have never put one of these in does anybody have a clue? I think it's the unit under the alternator that runs off the serpentine belt. Is there a difference in the quality of a reman vs new besides price. The one from him is $240 for parts and 200 labor. Seems kind of high? What's the cost of changing the system over to hydro boost like the new way I have in my 2006. Has anybody done that conversion? Or should I try the replacement myself and attempt to find a used one or reman. 5 years ago I thought I would never work on my vehicles but with times as they are I'm finding out it's not as hard as it first looks....

    In advance...Thanks a lot for the help



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They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • Bruce Hathcock May 29, 2009

    to install the hydra boost would be cost prohibitive unless you got the parts from a wrecking yard, and some component's they can't sell, I can help you locate the parts for you and get the price of some items that are rebuilt for the hydra boost but I need more information and I need to ask you some questions and get the vin # so I could get the exact quote for all parts to install the hydra boost. The Vacuum pump is not that hard to replace and is less troublesome than the hydra boost, I know someone who has a wrecked F250 so if you want to get help let me know because I don't know who you sent this response to to me or to everyone that viewed the question, so if you are speaking to me reply to me with my user name and I will figure a way out for you to e-mail me or time it where we can chat on-line when you see me so I can help you out with this problem, and it's always better to do it yourself. You can buy parts at JC whitney catalog on-line at least some of them. so let me know when you want to chat I am Pacific time Oregon, morin time is best for me I am up by 5:00 am on-line so I will be here tomorrow if you want to chat to set up what you want to do. if you can figre out the brake parts you can replace the vacuum pump it's not hard and the pump runs more than just the brakes so you would still need the pump even if you got the hydra boost system. c-ya if you want to chat tomorrow, if that time is not good for you I can also chat in the evening and I think I can get you a better deal, however getting quality parts and a good warranty is what you want, price being cheep does not mean a good deal also high cost does not mean the best parts. There are other things you need to check as well, for instance did you check the compensating valve on the rear axle to see if it worked? if not you need to know how to do that, and you need to know how to test all wheels by going 15 miles an hour slam on the brakes and see if all four wheels lock up on pavement where it is safe and if not then you need to see why. You can set the compensating valve up to where the rear brakes share more in the braking power than is set at the factory but again I need to ask more questions. As you can see not being there makes it harder to troubleshoot the problem. c-ya.



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