I put Coolent into my 1990 buick, but now my temp light keeps coming on. it seems that just after a few minutes, the temp gauge goes into the red. I do not understand it. I put the coolent in the container that says Coolent for engine. did i do something wrong? Please help!
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Re: car still overheating after i put in coolent
First, disconnect your negative battery terminal for 3-5 minutes, this will clear out any old code readings. Re-attach the neg battery cable, start the car and let the car idle until the problem re occurs. If you have a bad thermostat, then lower radiator hose will be significantly cooler then the upper radiator hose. This is because the thermostat has become locked in the closed position and is not allowing coolant to travel through the motor and back to the lower radiator hose. Also, if you do replace your thermostat, make sure to buy a thermostat rated for 1090 or 190, don't use a 180 rating. Using a hemostat with a different rating, can cause other components of the cooling system to work improperly, refer to your owner’s manual or a Haynes/Chilton manual to be absolutely certain.
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inside the top up tank there is a little float, I usually locate it and just work it up and down with a screwdriver, lots of times as the float can get stuck, failing this check the little sender unit under the said tank, but I must stress KEEP AN EYE ON TEMP GUAGE. This is a proper pain as I experience this often but used to it now, once a week when checking water level I just put screwdriver in and bounce the little float. hope this helps
the most obvious cause is the head gasket ,its failing and drawing in the water so no problems with overheating or pressuring the system ,never mind the weekend mechanics who know more with the amount of beer they drink ,its failing as most gaskets will around the 100,000 mile mark regardless of make or model
Check to see if you have flow through the entire radiator.If part of the radiator core is cool to the touch when the engine is at operating temp, this indicates restricted radiator flow. If the entire radiator core is not allowing water to flow through, cooling will not be at all efficient. Also a good idea would be to purchase a block tester. available at napa and other reputable parts houses for around thirty dollars. You remove a small amount of coolant, and put the tool in the radiator, or pressure tank opening. If there are any combustable gasses present, i'e' exhaust, this would indicate a head gasket breech, (or maybe worse) and would indicate that it's time to stop looking for a simple problems, and get proffessional help. Good luck to you!
I don't know about this model but some vehicles have a senser One if the scencer goes bad it will send a false reading, Or it could be that there is not enough coolent in the raditor, It is possible that you need to have the raditor flushed and new coolent added...Check with your local dealer ask what the recamented service on the raditor is as far as millage..
Check the sensor which controls the cooling fans that cools the radiator it prevents the engine from over heating and allows the temp gauge to stay at normal range.recently had problems with my 2003 impala overheating it was the sensor had the thermostat replace as well.
I will agree with your uncle and say that you should check the water pump. Start the vehicle and look at the water pump. Most water pumps have a "weep hole". If there is coolant coming out of this hole the water pump is not working properly. If not, and if the temperature has been running normally, you may have fixed the problem when you replaced the cap, if the water pump is good and the temp has been running high, then check the thermostat. Hope this helps and good luck.
Check for coolant in the oil. The oil will look like chocolate milk. After it's sat overnight you can also try loosening your oil drain plug until fluid comes out. See if it looks like chocolate milk or is just straight coolant. Check your spark plugs. Pull them out of the cylinder head and check for white corrosion or actual coolant in chambers or threads. You can also do a block test (rent the block tester at Autozone for $25.00- return when you're done and you get the $25.00 back) the block test fluid is $8.99. Follow the directions and if your test fluid turns green or yellow you have combustion/emission gases in the coolant. This can be caused by a cracked block/ cylinder head/ blown head gasket. You can also disconnect one head's spark plugs and test that cylinder then the other to see if only one is causing the problem. Hope this helps. If you're losing coolant, it's probably not your water pump. A lot of times if a head gasket fails, the head (usually made from Aluminum) will crack or warp.
It sound as though the car is overheating and maybe the mechanic did not properly blled the system to expel the air.
Air does not heat or cool in a pressurized environment and will read ok on the temp guage.Basically the air is plugging the circulation at the senders spot.
Call the repair shop and ask if it was properly bled.
under the relay cover should tell where they are. you could switch one with another next to it to diagnose. then maybe ck cooling fan itself by unplugging and powering it up manually with power and ground to connector. could even be coolant temp switch ocated on engine. is the engine lite on?
try bleeding the air out of the cooling system right after you start the motor up. this will allow you to get all the air out but not steam. do this until the coolent comes out. common cause, it could be vapor locking and not letting the coolent flow causing OVERHEATING. hope this helps