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Re: there seems to be no power thru ignition switch the...
Don't want to make it sound too easy, but simply put, there is a bad wire or connection somewhere between the two. 1st thing to check is to make sure the battery cable connectors and battery posts where the cables attach to the battery are clean.
remove the cables from the battery and inspect them for corrosion. They should be clean. If they are not, battery will show charged, but car willl not start, or even light the dashboard if they are corroded enough.
This is the best place to start if you have not checked them already.
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Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.
look in the positive battery connection. it splits in two, one goes directly to the starter and the other goes to the instruments and ignition, for the description of the problem. I'd say that's where the problem is.
It's pos to be an ign switch but before throwing a lot of expensive parts at it before ya fix it I would check All the fuses & relays first, & they're a lot of them an Caddys. Under hood, under dash, under rear seat, if battery is under seat a lot of fuses & relays are there too, (but probably not for these issues). Check anything labeled IGN or ignition switch, or for any system that isn't working, dash/cluster, starter. If the fuses & relays are good then get a test light & start checking from there.
It could be as simple as a poor connection on the starter solenoid wire. Is it a push-on connector? One could do a little checking. When the starter won't work, test for power on the solenoid wire when key is held in crank. If power there, clean the connector, and check if starter works. No power? Then move to the neutral safety switch, check for power leaving the switch, key in crank, and clutch depressed. Power should be passing through the switch. Another thing to check is all your grounds-the battery, the engine ground, computer harness ground.
Sounds like the Ignition switch wasn't the problem, check your fuse links at starter, they are soft fuseable wire that will burn if shorted or even when they get old over time they will go bad. they are the smaller like #10-12 ga. wire , should be at least 1 maybe 2 of them at harness connection to starter.
About the only thing you didn't mention was the starter itself. You could have it tested. But before that, try to see if you have power on the small wire to starter solenoid on the starter, when key is held in cranking position. Pull the small wire off and check for power with a multimeter or a testlight while someone holds the key in crank. This is the signal wire from ignition switch that closes the elec. contacts inside solenoid so the starter gets full power from the battery to spin. (This wire also is in the circuit with the clutch switch and the starter relay.) If you have power on this wire in crank, it is very likely the starter is bad. If there is no power, check that circuit out. It is losing power somewhere from switch to starter solenoid. Good luck.
The ignition start circuit is the path from the ignition key in cranking mode to the solenoid on the starter. The path travels through a starter relay and a neutral safety switch before it reaches the starter.
This must be the circuit not working on your car.Make sure battery and starter connections are tight.Check for power at the starter solenoid terminal with a testlight when someone turns key to crank. If you have power there, they sold you a defective starter. If you have no power there then it could be the relay or the neutral safety switch.
What vehicle make / model / engine size are you working on. That will help to diagnose problem.
I assume your battery has power? Is your security light on or flashing in the instrument cluster with ignition on? Thanks, Mike
Sounds like bad ignition switch.Check battery voltage it should be 12-12.6 volts.If its good check for power at starter on the switch side of solenoid if you don't have power its the switch if you do have power and it won't crank its the starter thats bad.