Hard to start runs rough untill i play with the throttle then idles a little high (auto choke i presume),when it starts to idle down it will run real rough again then die. i believe i have all the vac lines on or plugged. there is room for a lot of rotation on the dist could i be 1 tooth off on the dist or 180 or ?
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Re: hard to start rebuilt 2.8
To assure your distributor is in the proper position, remove your #1 cylinder spark plug, stick a screwdriver in the cylinder, manually turn the engine and bring the piston to the top. From there, set your distributor to the #1 spark plug wire (you may have to turn your oil pump drive shaft with a screwdriver). Then time your engine from there.
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Sounds like the TPS(Throttle Positioning Sensor) or the IAC(Idle Air Control) is malfunctioning. Sometimes these sensors malfunction because of a dirty throttle body. You should clean the throttle body out with throttle body cleaner first. After cleaning the throttle body out, start the vehicle. It will be slow starting and when it does start it will run rough but after a minute or two it will settle down. You will need to clear the trouble codes. Most major auto parts stores will do this for little or no charge. After clearing the trouble codes drive the vehicle. If the vehicle runs properly, no more is needed. If the vehicle still runs the same as before then continue to drive vehicle until the engine light comes back on. Read the codes and replace the defective sensor.
Sounds to me like the throttle plate is too far open at idle. Look for something hanging up and holding the throttle more open that it should be-like the choke like the auto choke or the fast idle cam screw set to far in. Look up the fast idle speed adjust procedure in the books and check out how yours is set up. Also, if the carb was all the way apart the throttle plate may be off center on the throttle plate shaft causing extra air to bypass the throttle plate. Good luck.
Check for vacuum leaks, most common is on PVC valve hoses
Your IAC is mounted on top of intake with 2 8mm bolts
Take out and clean out carbon from both sides
Also can throttle body at same time
It will start hard and run rough for a minute, just let it idle through
After 30 secs, snap throttle and see where idle rests
I take it that you have a carby in which case adjust the choke cover so that the cam engages the throttle lever and holds the throttle open until the bi-spring in the choke cover moves enough to move the cam out of the away allowing normal idle. If you have efi (Not from your choke word) then run fault codes and see which sensor is faulty. There should be an idle speed around 1200 RPM idle in efi for around 3 minutes and then the idle should drop back.
Sounds like a automatic choke sticking....Take the air duct loose from carb..While accelerating engine spray bottle throttle spray in.....as the car tries to die...stop spraying...Repeat 3 or 4 times.....It will clean your injectors. Runs alot better...Remember....bottle throttle spray...not carborator spray
Believe it or not I used to be a mechanic for chrysler. There are a couple of things to look at and I'm sure you'll find the problem. #1 is to check for any vaccuum leaks in the hoses and the intake manifold.I do this by spraying carb cleaner in little spurts towards a specific area and listen to see if the engine rpm raises while it is running. #2 is a carb problem--Usually with the high idle solenoid (located on the Passenger side of the carb) or the choke. Check to see if you have power at the wires leading to the using a test light or a volt meter before you start it up. If you do have power then start the vehicle or have someone start it for you while you are under the hood and examine the choke operation. B4 you start it the vehicles choke should be completely closed. If it is, it should open as the vehicle warms up when working properly. If not working properly it will either stay closed and cause the vehicle to flood out or run rough and backfire or it will be open(stay open ) and the vehicle will not stay running unless warmed up for sure.# 3 It could also be caused by a combination of the high idle solenoid holding the choke open and then causing the choke to stick open.
Sounds like a choke issue. It should pull off the choke plate a little after it is running, and keep opening little by little, as it warms up, with a little quick hit from the throttle to kick it off of high idle.
Even with a rebuilt carb you have to make the adjustments. Check the choke adjustment and set the fast idle. If choke is to tight it will be hard to start and take a long time to idle down. The fast idle sounds like it is high also.