I had a wreck a week ago i rear ended someone the damage was not bad i had to replace the radiator as far as motor damage but the air bags came out and my computer that sits behind my radiator is buzzing when i turn my key on i have a 1994 mustang 5 liter,the car cranks over but no spark till you let go of the key,we swaped the coil,distrubuter,cap roter and the computer,and still nothing anyone have any ideas........HELP!!!!!
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Re: it turns over but wont start
The fuel pump safety switch is tripped from the accident, reset it.
The switch is located behind the trim panel inside the truck on the left hand side, there is a small access hole u put your finger through to push and reset switch.
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With your overheating problem I would get a can of radiator clean and follow the directions on the can. Then reverse flush the radiator and refill with new coolant.
If that does not solve the problem you will be in the market for a new radiator. The diesel knock that you got was preignition caused by the excess heat of the motor.
The ABS light being on is most likely from a wheel sensor damaged or not placed correctly after the front end repairs that were done.
Your heater fan and power windows will most likely be a bad (loose)connector in the electrical wiring. Any time you see a connector plug just give it a good wriggle and push it making sure it has a tight fit.
I would reset the computer to get rid of all your old engine codes and that check engine light. Remove the negative battery terminal and stand on the brake pedal a number of times then reconnect.
You will also loose your preset radio stations when you do this. Now if the check engine light comes back on get someone with a OBD2 scan tool to see which engine codes are set.
Check to see if your vehicle has an fuel inertia switch. During any impact on a vehicle, the inertia switch shuts the fuel system down until the switch is reset. But if it is damaged, you should replace it
These are not related issues. The problem is a really common one. Most likely the circuit board is bad. I sell about 4 a week for these trucks. You can pick them up for around $20 at your local parts store.
Check the battery terminals real good.Make sure they are clean and tight.Check and see if any of the side terminals are leaking.
As far as the blower motor.It is more than likely that the blower motor resistor is bad.It is located by the blower motor.Hope this helps.Good luck.
I just worked on a 01' Cavalier just two weeks ago with this problem. It ended up being a bad fuel pump. Get under the rear of the car and have someone turn the key on (don't crank the engine). Listen for that high pitch fuel pump noise. If you don't hear that, the pump may be bad. Check your fuses first, then the relay. Under the hood on the driver side there is a box that contains the fuel pump relay. They are small and made by siemens I believe... there should be two. One is the fuel pump and the other is the A/C. Swap the two (same relay). Then try to start your car again. If the fuse is good and you switched the relays, the pump is probably bad. Another way to test the pump theory...(unscrew the intake hose clamp and pull it off the airbox). Have someone crank the engine as you spray starting fluid in the hose. The engine will start for a moment, then die. If the engine does start, this means that the ignition system and engine are in good working order. If it doesn't start, you may have a problem with the ignition system or ECU. If it does end up being the pump, you have the pull the fuel tank to get to the pump. Chev didn't engineer an access panel. Give that a try and let us know what happens. Good luck.
How do you know if it "doesn't seem to be new" if you don't know where it is? Why was it replaced in the first place? There are usually three of them, one or two on one end and two or one on the other end of the engine. You must jack up the front end of the car so that you can find the mounts (use jack stands under both sides to keep from getting crushed if the jack slips). Mounts are usually two metal plates with a rubber biscuit between--one side bolted to the engine and the other side to the frame. If the biscuit has come free from either plate--replace that mount. Bad rubber is usually swollen or torn badly. If oily, clean with rag. There is usually an upper brace on top of the engine that can become damaged if one of the lower mounts is damaged or missing bolts. Good luck with this.
that it's called constant control relay module. look for a loose ground. also there's a fuel pump shut off switch that goes off if impact occurs u can buy a repair manual that tells u exactly where u can locate this part. write back if u have questions.
See if you can locate a wiring diagram for your vehicle. I have a 92 Seville and the wiring for the brakes and blinkers runs through the turn signal switch. The switch generally goes bad just from everyday use. They lose connection and you get intermittent problems (much like yours). Consult a wiring diagram, if they do run through the switch then I would recommend replacing that. Start there. Cheers.
If you have a bad bearing than there is probably metal throughout the whole rear end. I would contact a toyota wrecking yard and price a complete rear end for your vehicle. Search online for a toyota wrecking yard in your area. A complete rear end will be around $600 dollars.