I have a 320 BMW tdi se E46 2002 .IT WILL START FROM COLD OK, BUT AFTER THE ENGINE HAS WARMED UP, AND THE ENGINE IS SWITCHED OFF(STOPPING FOR FUEL ETC)THE CAR WILL TAKE A LONG TIME TO START, OR IT WILL NOT START AT ALL, UNTIL IT HAS COOLED DOWN FOR A FEW HOURS. ANY IDEAS. I have the very same problem. I changed the spark plugs, the start is more quick, but it continues taking too much time to start when compared with a 136bhp engine. The ECU, doesn't show any error. After start the engine, the car runs good, no problem in speed and acceleration. The engine has a Inspection I in about 9000 miles. Sorry for my poor english!! Who has an idea to solve my problem, and after all other too, answer to this thread. Thanks
I had the same problem on my 330d M-Sport Touring. My problem was identified as 2 faulty injectors al;lowing too much fuel to flow back into the fuel lines. This resulted in reduced common rail pressure and the ECU would not start the injectors. I recommend getting a leak back test done and this will confirm if the injectors are good or bad. Try and find a Bosch service centre as these guys will know how to do the test and also how to fit the injectors properly. Good luck
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Not sure what "tick over" means. Suspect it is hard to start when cold? Could be bad glow plugs. They "warm" the cylinders to get them up to temp before starting. It could also be that you are not waiting for the cylinders to warm up. I have a 2009 tdi. It has a light on the dash that goes on when I put the key in, but I have to wait for it to go out before starting the engine.
The temperature sending unit tells the computer that the engine is cold when first started. After engine is warmed up, if the computer things engine is still now warm, it's still in cold start mode and dumping too much fuel into the engine and flooding it making it hard t start or no start at all. I'd have the temperature sending unit in the engine replaced to see if it's cured. It's separate from the gauge or light and they would show warmed up, but the computer is not getting the message.
Just means it isn't warmed up yet when sputters and misfires. Most likely a bad connection on the temperature sending unit in the engine or that sending unit is faulty. This sending unit tells the computer when engine is warm or cold and has to be functional. When working properly, it tells the computer to put engine in cold start mode, which it is not doing. The sensor is stuck in open position or warm mode and not giving the engine enough fuel when cold making it misfire and sputter. Fix that and you'll have no other problems with revving either.
It's diesel. Diesel engines do not like cold, but that is normal. I am going to assume this engine has a start delay in cold weather to allow for Glow Plugs to warm up the cylinders before actually turning over the engine. I don't know about TDI's specifically, but I think a TDI Mech at your local Volkswagen dealer could confirm my assumption. They may call the parts something different, but the function will be the same. Sounds like normal operation for a diesel engine in cold weather...obviously, this would be why the engine always turns over immediately in warm weather...no need for the Glow Plugs to warm the cylinders. Best of luck resolving this problem.
There isn't a car out there that likes to be put in drive as soon as it is started. Mine especialy. I give it at least 30 seconds to warm while I am adjusting evrything and away I go. Runs like a champ. Let it warm up for a couple of minutes from a cold start.
In addition to the 4 primary glow plugs, the cooling system also has 3 Coolant Glow Plugs to help provide extra heat to the cooling system in order to warm-up the vehicle's interior more quickly, and enhance overall engine warm-up time. (Example - Some Mercedes diesel engines use electrical heaters in the cabin because their engine is so thermally efficient.) Likewise, this auxiliary source of heat from the 3 Coolant Glow Plugs is necessary because of the VW 1.9 TDI engines outstanding efficiency, which wastes very little heat.
The 3 Auxiliary Coolant Glow Plugs are located at the end of the aluminum cylinder head (in a protruding flange) directly below the vacuum (brake booster) pump, which also connects to a coolant hose.
The 3 Auxiliary Coolant Glow Plugs use two (underhood) relays which are monitored and controlled by the ECU. During a cold start, the vehicle's interior temperature selector switch helps the ECU choose one of three modes depending on the amount of heat required to warm-up the coolant.
For example, Coolant Glow Plug #1 can be selected to operate all by itself, or #2 and #3 can operate together as a two-some, or lastly, all three glow plugs can form a triple source of heat for maximum enhancement of engine warm-up time.
After the engine is completely warmed up and the thermostat is open, the Coolant Glow Plugs normally shut-off and remain off unless the (thermally efficent) engine cools down sufficiently to have the computer signal them to come back on to keep the engine and cabin air warm. Extensive idling times at stop lights or in the driveway are scenarios where these glow plugs are most likely to recycle on and off.
In conclusion, the period of Preglow and Afterglow is determined by the engine's coolant temperature (during a cold or hot start), which helps the ECU select a predetermined time-cycle for the combustion chamber and / or Auxiliary Coolant Glow Plugs to follow.
Finally, one myth that needs to be immediately debunked, is the belief that the TDI's advanced Glow Plug System is linked to the opening of the driver's side door, which is false! It is also noteworthy to mention that some earlier VW diesel glow plug systems were operated in this manner, but not so with the advanced VW Jetta 1.9 TDI engine.
Ok, time for car school. The vehicle is operated by the computer, every electrical concept that is. When the engine is cold, it starts fine because the computer has placed it in "cold start mode", putting more fuel into the engine than normally would until Once the engine is warmed up, a temperature sending unit or temp sensor tells the computer to change to normal run mode. IF said temp sensor is faulty and is not telling the computer to make said change, it stays in cold start mode, still dumping excess fuel in the engine that is now not required, cause it's warmed up. Like keeping the choke closed on older vehicles. Now I think you can answer your own question, when this no start action is happening after warm up and it always starts fine when cold, what's the first thing you check ? Right, the unsuspected temp sensor. Change that and no more start problem. Have a wonderful day. Glad I could be of service.
Probable Spark plugs have blown. I would do a good tune up and replace your fuel filter, plugs and wires, oil and oil filter, air filter. Your system builds enough fuel pressure when it's cold becuase there is technically less are in your combustion chamber when it's cold so it can build more fuel pressure to start. When it's warm there's less room to build pressure to start your motor. So do a good tune up for now and see if that works. Hope you the best!