When first starting truck and driving no problem after 10 minets truck begins to back fire and when i excelerate it loses compression and wonts to stall i have replaced fuel filter, gas tank , new plugs and wires,fuel filter,air filter. put fuel injection cleaner in tank and still have same problem.my tack gage fluxuating up and down. please help. i have a 94 nissan pathfinder that loses compression on a hill or when i come to a complete stop the rpms drop to about a half a grand and lower it just fluxs back and forth and when i press the gas it try to die but if i let it roll for a few seconds i can drive til my next stop sign
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if you have replaced cap and rotor plus coil and it seemed to fire up then i would take the next step. For sure put your new plugs and wires on then make sure you have replaced your air filter, and change out your fuel filter, fire up the vehicle if it doesn't start I would suggest changing the fuel pump. If it starts up make sure you put in some BK fuel injector cleaner in your fuel it might be you have dirty injectors. If all fails then get back with me and we will look else where. Good luck hope this info helps you out
Depending if it is backfiring out carb or out exhaust will tell you if the time is off. The carb backfire is a sure sign the timing is off. A valve is not completely sealed off before ignition and it explodes before sealing off the chamber. This also could mean a burnt valve as well. AN exhaust pipe backfire could be a few things. Raw fuel in muffler that ignites from the heat. Over rich mixture, timing, jump timing belt, clogged catalyst, etc. Now your vehicle runs on LPG which actually is a good thing. Much cheaper then gasoline fuel. I am not familiar with LPG carburation methods, but backfires are pretty basic. Carb or exhaust fire, timing is a good direction and carb adjustment. I would do a compression test also. Check for a leak that is not allowing a full burn of the fuel in the chamber. Check vacuum lines also. If Timing the vehicle requires a short between 2 points, it must be done to show correctly the proper setting without advancing the timing. As long as the distributor has not been removed and placed a tooth off which is rare, but jumped timing belts will set a tooth off occasionally. Do a compression test, it will let you know your engines condition accurately.
need to get back to basics, first check engine compression-you say that it's high mileage, so I'd start there-If you have uniform compression across the board, move on to fuel pressure at the top rail-if that is good, with spark it has to run, but make sure your distributor is properly installed (not out 180 degrees).
honestly, sounds like you should go to basics-check compression first, clean the throttle body , check fuel pump pressure at the rail on top of the engine-if you have any kind of check engine light, you need to get the code pulled, you have an OBDI system, so it is not as easy to diagnose-another basic is having good electrical power-battery and alternator in good condition.
I don't have a diagram but the firing order is 1 2 3 4 5 6. Your number 1 3 & 5 cylinders are in the back and your 2 4 & 6 cylinders are closest to the front of the vehicle. I am saying this as I am assuming you have the 3.0 liter DOHC V-6 engine. I hope this helped and good luck.
a bad crank sensor causes a car to shut down while driving down road. and will not start back up for about 10 minutes. have car scanned to read the problem codes. any auto parts stores will scan for free.
Backfiring after warming up can be from many things.
One that comes to mind is carbon deposits on valves, causing them to not close properly. The carbon deposits would also heat up and then ignite air/fuel mixtures before the spark plug can fire. Or you would have hot exhaust gasses leaking back into the cylinder on intake and that would ignite the fuel.
Tac gauge fluctuating, and engine running rough on acceleration could be a vacuum leak, do you hear a hissing sound when the engine is running? listen closely under the hood. If you have a vacuum leak you would lose power and your RPM would fluctuate oddly. As for the backfire however, there are probably more than just one problem. Its hard to say for sure.
So please, more details, noises you hear, when exactly everything happens etc. What speed and RPM the engine begins to bog down at, does it stall? What range is ur tac fluctuating at? anything you can think of, throw it on there.
Three thing and engine need to crank are fuel fire and compression so if you have the other two then you are losing compression i would suggest running a compression test on it. I hope that helps you out.