Question about 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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Jetta running rough usually at idle.. below 1000 RPM's

Recently started making a noise when at idle, below 1000 RPM's.. sounds basically like my exhaust (some after market one that was on when I purchased) is loose, but the sound comes from my engine. Auto supply shop suggested a valve, but haven't been able to get into the shop yet. Sound is intermitten.. usually starts if I drive at high RPM's and then idle at a light... gets worse with AC on.. if I shift below 3 or 4000 RPM's engine runs fine for the most part.. just a little rough every now and then. Any ideas on problems and price ranges for repairs?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 VW Jetta VR6 My

You may have a bad coil pack - try moving two of them around and see if the misfire follows the coil pack or stays at the same cylinder. If it follows the coil pack, get a new one. If it stays in the same cylinder, inspect your spark plug wires and make sure the plug is gapped correctly.

Posted on Aug 09, 2008

  • 225 Answers

SOURCE: engine idle incorrect nearly stalls runs on 3 cyl on low rpm

Best way is to get the fault codes read using a £15 interface cable and VAG-com software (£free) on a laptop computer. It will save you money. In the meantime, have you removed and examined the spark plugs?
Hope this helps you a bit. If it does, a "Fixya" rating would be much appreciated. If it doesn't
help you, I'd be grateful if you didn't bother with a rating at present - they can't be increased later if I do manage to solve your problem! Just come back and tell me what you found. Cheers, D

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

  • 328 Answers

SOURCE: fuel pressure regulator makes hissing sound

your fuel pump should cycle on until the proper fuel pressure is achieved then it should shut off

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: Hesitation and loss of poer at 4000 rpm

It could be an exhaust restriction. Do you have a vacuum/pressure guage? If so you can check this at the DPFE sensor hoses. This will be either a black or a silver sensor at the back of the motor with a 3 wire connector and two rubber hoses hooked to the bottom of it these rubber hoses then hook to metal lines that go down to the exhaust. Unhook one of these hoses at the sensor then hook up the vacuum/pressure guage. It should read less than 1 psi at idle and 3 to 4 psi at wide open throttle. Any thing more is an exhaust restriction.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Runs rough and smells of fuel after washing engine!

Don't "wash" the motor, like you wash the outside. Did you pressure wash it? God people are too freakin anal retentive and go screwing up their engines. Next time use engine cleaner and try not wet any wiring harnesses or anything electrical. You probably killed a sensor connection or something.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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1 Answer

Making whistle noise on off on run and stopping.

There are basically two types of whistle noises.

* Whistle when you get more gas (increase RPM, put gas pedal, sometimes just idling but louder when you put more gas)
This usually intake-side leak.
Intake manifold itself, intake manifold gasket (most likely), even airfilter housing, Airflow meter housing (connector), anything where air goes to engine.
usually engine get rough or unstable idle when intake leak occur.
Engine knocking or pinging may feel.

* Whistle when you decrease RPM (engine brake, reduce speed, sometimes just idling but louder when it dropping RPM)
This usually Vacuum-side leak.
There are many vacuum hoses in engine room. even inside of cabin (heater control, etc)
Try to spot where it coming from.
Vacuum also connected to Brake servo, heater control and spark timing.

Put metal or plastic pipe (small PVC pipe will work fine) to one of your ear then isolate source of noise and find where it come from.

Feb 26, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wont idle runs good but dies below 1000 rpm

loose o rfaulty electrical connections at distributer, coil or alternator.fault in fuel or electrical systems.Vacuum leak at the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or throttle body.,Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are tightened securely and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold are positioned properly and in good condition

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1 Answer

When the car in Drive mode, I am getting noise.When I OFF air condition the noise will be coming down. When I switch ON air condition the RPM is not increasing much. Still it is below 1000. How cai I fix...

Release tension on the serpentine accesory belt so you can check the idler bearings, alternator bearing, coolant/water pump and power steering bearing. for looseness and how smoothley they rotate. If a bearing has grease that has dried out it will spin very easily and possibly with noise. Any roughness in the bearing means it should be replaced. That roughness could be the source of your noise.

All you need to do to test for wear is hold the sheave/pulley between thumb and forefinger of both hands and alternately push and pull the edges of each of those items. If there is more than a slight amount of movemement, that item should be replaced or serviced.

As for idle speed of the engine changing when the AC is turned on, there is a solenoid near the location of where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body that should energize when the AC is on, and release when AC is off- this simply pushes the throttle plates open a little bit so engine can idle with the extra load of the AC compressor. Check the wiring on that solenoid to make sure it secure and making good contact as this solenoid also sets idle throttle position on cold engine start too, So a cold engine start with AC on, it will idle above 1000 RPM. A warm engine with AC on should be fine idling at about 800 RPM. About the only thing that you might consider doing is checking for vacuum leaks. A can of carberator/throttle body cleaner should be sprayed on the surfaces where the throttle body bolts to engine, and around any od the vacuum hose connections. Depending on where you are in the world will determine how much anti pollution equipment is installed too- those too can make noise and those vacuum lines should be checked for leakage as well. You will know when a leak is found as the idle will speed up for a moment and smooth out.

When the engine is cold, the noises of anything under the hood/bonnet tend to be louder.

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1 Answer

Runs very rough and idles at 950 rpm, is this fast?

Sounds like a vacuum hose leak. Look under the hood for any cracked vacuum hoses and replace. listen for hissing noise.

Mar 07, 2012 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

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I have a 1988 Jetta, it has PF engine, its an automatic. My problem is, it will not idle when it first starts, if I run it up to about 2000 rpm for roughly 5 minutes or so it will attempt to...

This is likely a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The rest will need to be adjusted properly. I do have manuals for just those systems. If you would like one, let me know. Email me at and I can send via email back to you. They cover the entire fuel system, diagnosis and adjustment.

Jul 29, 2011 | 1988 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Rough idle then stalls

Vacume leak or bad idle motor. With the car in park and running with the hood open listen for leaks moving your hand around the different hoses looking for a change in the sounds that you hear. The idel motor also makes the car idel up to 1500 RPM or so right at start-up then idel down, If it doesn;t the idel motor is likly. Check engine light is on when running? Test for codes, Follow code test charts don't skip any steps!.

Nov 02, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Makes real bad engine noise at 1000 rpm

what kind of sound? tinny metallic or knocking? possibly have some very loose exhaust heat shields. reclamping or tack-welding usually does the trick.

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