a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Get a can of spray silicone lubricant, and using the nozzle tube, spray down the front and rear guide tracks of the window. Run the window up and down a few times to distribute the lubricant, and the window should work fine.
Open the door, place the blade of the screwdriver behind the lock switch on the door panel and pop it out of the door panel. Repeat this process for the trim panel around the power window switches and the interior door handle, pulling both of those pieces off of the door. 2Unbolt the door panel from the door using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. There are bolts behind the door lock and in the corners of the panel. If this is a front-door panel, pull off the triangular panel that covers the mirror bolts using your hands. Then lift the door panel up towards the top of the door, and then pull it off the door. 3 Plug in the window switches again to the harness on the door. Roll the window down halfway until you can see the bolts that clamp the window in place through the access holes. There are two 10mm bolts that clamp the window to the window track, and there are access holes that allow you to unbolt those clamps using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Unbolt the clamps at this point .4 Pull up the rear of the window--the section toward the back of the Tahoe--and tilt the window up so that it is oriented perpendicular to its normal position. Pull the window out of the door panel, tilting it in towards the interior of the vehicle. 5 Slide the replacement window in place in the same manner you pulled out the stock window. Tilt the window back into the clamps, then loosely tighten the clamps in place. Roll the window up and down a few times to make sure it fits correctly, then tighten down the clamps on the window using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. 6 Reassemble the door panel in the reverse order of dis assembly.
Most likely the window has a broken gear or guide wheel, internally on the window regulator. Also possible window motor. Least likely is the window switch. Can you pull the window up by hand even a few inches, if so the problem is the regulator. If you can not, the most likely it is the motor.
Please rate this answer.
Try spraying silicone spray down the sides (felt) where window slides (guides) up & down. Put window all the way down, spray them well, top to bottom,then run window up & down a few times. May not cure it, but should help. Be generous with it, but a little clean up later may be needed.
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
I had the problem of the drivers window rolling back down. This was fixed by removing the electrical connector located behind the door hinge. It looks like an oblong block. You have to prise the top ribbed part right up then pull the block out. Leave out for about 1 minute. Replace it
I had this problem as well as 33 others I've spoken to online. The main floor harness runs thru the drivers side front fender and plugs into the drivers door. The harness in 1996 civics are an inch or 2 too short so after a few years a few of the 25 thru 27 wires in the plug #C556 either break off or pull out of the plug. Since the drivers door contains the master power window and lock switches and the power mirrors can also be affected it can seem like everyones problems are in different parts of the car but they are all part of the same default. So I went to ebay and purchased a floor harness with full power options and installed it myself. Until my part came in I just went to a junk yard and cut off a good plug then spliced it into my existing floor harness. Hope this helps. It took me 4 months to figure this problem out!!!
To my knowledge, the PCV valve for a 1999 Honda Civic fits into a socket on the block and a tube leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the intake manifold. As posted here, "Chiltons repair manual ... says on the passenger side near the top of the crank case leading to the air intake. In other words open your hood look down where it says "HONDA" right above the spark plug wires come out and to the distributor cap. Look at the letter "H" then look above the about 1.5 inches then left about 4-5 inches you will see a black hose with a clamp on it curving to the right to a smaller metal tube leading to the black box about (8-9 inches) where your air filter goes to. That's where it's >suppose< to be,up top near the letter "H"."
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.