Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

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Power to one side of ignition module

What could be the cause of one side of an ignition module getting power but the other one isnt?

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Check the pcm fuse.

Posted on May 27, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When I hooked up a 50 amp jump starter to it and turned the key, everything went dead. I've check the fuses and while the 30 amp fuses for the ignition system are bubbled, they are still making an...


Ignition side depending on vehicle also has relays. I would check ALL fuse banks for relay failure and fuse failure, Not just under hood box, there will also be IGN fuses inside interior box... remember ignition isnt your only possibility... if the vehicle has a Powertrain control module.... be sure to check fuse to the pcm and relays... ignition side may be good but without power to pcm or related component you wont have power to anything

Oct 30, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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1995 Mitsubishi mirage 1.5 motor isn't getting any spark


several things cause no spark with a logic probe 2 led version (red & green) with ignition on test both sides of the ignition coil they should be red if positive side green power problem to ignition + side red and - side green internal open in coil both red then place on - side and crank engine flashes red green then coil is bad does not flash then remove distributor cap and test magnetic pick-up coil if flashes replace module does not replace pick up coil.

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1 Answer

05 chevy uplander no crank


anybody else seen this happen ????? their are no magical fixes for automotive electrical problems . You buy yourself a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test all the electrical coming into the ignition switch an going out . Do you know how to do automotive elcetrical an electronic testing ? Do you know what voltage drop is ?
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? You can find free ones here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size ! Under system click on electrical distribution , under subsystem click on power distribuition ! Click the search button then the blue link. Find the ignition switch , check power in an out when trying to start the vehicle , voltage drop ! ignition switch could be bad . Do a voltage drop test on the starting circuit , bad positive or ground cable .
Starter Voltage Drop
Relay Controlled Power Mode
The body control module (BCM) uses the discrete ignition switch inputs ignition 1, ignition 3 and crank to distinguish the correct power mode. Once the BCM has determined the power mode selected by the vehicle operator it will energize the Ignition relay, Run relay and retained accessory power (RAP) relay, depending on which power mode is selected.
Your getting into thing's you have no clue about , probably ! Do you know about computer controlled thing's

Ignition 1 Relay
The relay uses a Hot At All Times B+ power source derived from the underhood electrical center. The ignition 1 relay supplies a power signal to the following circuits when the Run or Crank power mode is selected:
• AC clutch relay
• ABS STG angle sensor
• Antilock brake system (ABS) yaw sensor
• Auxiliary power drop connector
• Crank relay
• Cruse control switch
• Electronic brake control module (EBCM)
• Engine control module (ECM)
• HVAC module
• Ignition control module (ICM)
• Instrument panel cluster (IPC)
• Sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
• Transmission solenoid circuit
Power to many of this vehicle's circuits are controlled by the module that is designated the Power Mode Master (PMM). This vehicle's PMM is the Body Control Module (BCM). The PMM controls which power mode (Run, Accessory, Crank, Retained Accessory Power, or Off) is active.
Serial Data Power Mode
On vehicles that have several control modules connected by serial data circuits, one module is the power mode master (PMM). On this vehicle, the PMM is the body control module (BCM). The PMM receives 3 discrete ignition switch signals to differentiate which power mode will be sent over the Serial Data circuits. The table below illustrates the state of these inputs in correspondence to the ignition switch position:

May 23, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1988 ford ranger no spark


Did you replace the ignition control module, it is called the "TFI"? That is the most common source of a no start. There is also a problem with the ignition starter switches coming apart and causes a loss of power to the ignition system.

Jan 25, 2012 | 1988 Ford Ranger

3 Answers

1994 toyota 1.6 will not start. relpaced dist,ecm,wires,plugs.timing is good. fuel pump good.no fire to plugs.


have one of these in the yard with a the big ends gone and a possible cat problem ,on older models like this their is a ignition module and a crank sensor so it has to be one or the other ,the module isnt possible to test as such with right gear but the sensor is ,so disconnect the plug connector and rig up the multimeter across the wires from the sensor and then crank engine ,set multimeter to 10v and see if it produces a voltage when cranking engine if no voltage change it ,the module can be tested as well but on the other end of same connector ,connect an old bulb in a holder and then find the earth side of the two wires with the meter then run a bit of wire from this to earth then the 12v through bulb and touch teh other connection and with the centre lead out of didtributor and hold it close to engine touch the bulb wire to the connection and as you touch the connection it should spasrk if the module is working .

Mar 22, 2011 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

When accelerator is applied it wants to hesitate and power down-seems like it isnt getting fuel or no power tio the engine-could it be points ned replacing?


That might be the answer if your truck had points. Points have not been used in automomotive ignition systems since the late 70s. The maintenance schedule for your vehicle does recommend replacement of the fuel filter, spark plugs. distributor cap, distributor rotor, and ignition wires every 60,000 miles. Hesitation can also be caused by a dirty Throttle Body bore. If the Check Engine light is coming on, I would recommend having your Engine Control Module scanned for fault codes and if any fault codes are present,have the code/codes properly diagnosed before replacing any parts.

Jan 16, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

Truck stalls after 30 minutes of driving and wont restart for over an hour.


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty00d4d77.jpg

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Jun 24, 2010 | 1987 Ford F 250

1 Answer

I have a 91 f250 with 7.5 liter and no spark. where may the problem be?


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.


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Jun 19, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

2 Answers

'91 econoline no spark Where's the eec?


It is either under the hood on drivers side under a cover,or behind the glove box area,up in the dash,the ignition module is most likely the cause,most of the time.

Nov 14, 2009 | 1991 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

Truck just all off a sudden wont start. Put new


MAKE SURE DISTRIBUTOR COIL IS GETTING POWER.IF NOT.CHECK IGNITION FUSE.IF FUSE IS GOOD AND COIL IS GETTING POWER.REMOVE COIL AND CHECK THE COIL PRIMARY RESISTANCE USING A DIGITAL VOLTMETER. IT SHOULD BE 0.1 OHM.SECONDARY RESISTANCE SHOULD BE 5000 TO 25000 OHMS..IF COIL PASS ITS THE IGNITION MODULE.IF COIL FAILS.COIL IS BAD.

Sep 05, 2009 | GMC G2500 Cars & Trucks

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