Question about 1987 Toyota 4Runner

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Need name for part in Disc Hub for ordering

Installed new rotors today. New bearings and races, also. As I put in the 53mm bolt, then T20 Bit spacer, then plastic housing/w coiled spring inside, the plastic housing was cracked and broke. I'm not sure of the name of this part, but it's the only plastic(fiber?) part(that I know of) in the hub. It has 2 tabs, top and bottom that the large snap ring fits over(snap ring holds this thing in). It also has a tabbed fiber spacer that goes behind it. I'm trying to find a replacement but it would help to know the exact name of the part. The spring that is inside of it is coiled up like a snake, with two bent tabs of the spring for compressing so that one can fit it inside of this thing that broke. So sorry for the sad explanation, however, I'm exhausted and not thinking straight. Maybe it's "tension spring" or "follower"? Thanks for any help I can get.

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  • Marcusgrill May 25, 2009

    Hey, thank you so much for the prompt response. The part I broke is the 'brake shoe' in front of the thrust plate. I have a chiltons but the Haynes has actually been more helpful.
    The 'shoe' has a number on it but I'm guessing it's not a part number. I was hoping to have that so that I can call Yota with a number tuesday morning.....cuz I figure, WHO ELSE is gonna have that part? lol.

    If you have any ideas on where to get that, GREAT, let me know, and again, thank you so much!

    PS> I'm new to this site,...posting on it, anyway... and I tried to click on your 'name and respond, wouldn't let me, hoping you get this.



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  • Master
  • 5,158 Answers

Is that the automatic hub ? ... if so leave your email address i'll send you the diagram for it.

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith May 25, 2009

    check out and see if you can find the part... brake shoe ... other sources if they don't stock them would be a junk/wrecking/recycling yard



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Front rotor

Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, then remove the rotor. I believe on your vehicle you have to remove the dust cap in the center of the rotor, then remove the cotter pin, then remove the hub nut. When you put it all back together you will want to change the grease seal at the back and clean and re-pack your bearings. Make sure you look at your bearing races closely for uneven wear patterns. If you are replacing your rotors they will come with new bearing races installed, this is an opportune time to replace the wheel bearings with new ones. and again, make sure you install new grease seals and pack the new bearings with grease. When tightening up your hub nut make sure you get it tight to where you can feel a bit of drag when spinning the rotor, then back off your nut about 1/4 of a turn. This is vital that there is a bit of play as when you start driving the friction of the bearings going around and around will still generate heat and expand the metal of the bearing, even with all of that grease. If the bearings are tightened all of the way up they will seize and fail very quickly.

Apr 21, 2013 | 1989 Ford F 250

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the rear drivers side wheel bearing and hub assembly combined. I have having problems removing the hub assembly already on the car. What do i need to do to fix this problem

Remove offending wheel and set park brake extremely tight. Remove brake pads from caliper, and then unbolt caliper. Release the park brake. Unbolt the heater supply tube. Remove six 8mm hex bolts on the CV joint near the transmission. Remove axle. Remove four bolts on outside of housing that hold the 2 bearing race retainers. Reinstall new bearing into the housing... again this will require the EBS tool, and of course you'll have to rearrange the parts of the tool. Once the new bearing is installed, reinstall the bearing race retainers and the four screws that hold the retainers. Carefully reinstall the axle, making sure not to push the hub out of the bearing again.Reinstall six 8mm hex bolts holding the CV joint to the transmission. Reinstall rotor then set parking brake extremely tight.Reinstall brake caliper andl brake pads. Reinstall heater supply tube and wheel, torque wheel bolts to 96 ft-lbs, re-install transmission cover and suspension cover. Here you can find the quality parts

Aug 29, 2011 | 1994 Saab 900

2 Answers

Wondering if a novice can replace rotors and brake pads on a 2007 chevrolet suburban ltz? Do u have to do the wheel bearings also during rotor removal? Any special tools that might need to be purchased?

A novice can replace brake pads, but the rotors may be more difficult if they are not floating.
Check with the parts store to see if they are floating. If they are, you are in luck and can change the rotor once the calipers are off.

Often the front wheel hub bearing assembly for driven and nondriven wheels is actually two tapered bearings facing each other.
f40-20.gif Exploded view of a typical front wheel bearing assembly for a FWD vehicle. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation Each of the bearings rides in its own race. Some front wheel bearings are sealed units and are lubricated for life. They are replaced and serviced as an assembly. Others are serviceable and require periodic lubrication and adjustment.
Except when making slight adjustments to the bearings, the bearing assembly must be removed for all service work.
  • This is done with the vehicle on lifts and the wheel assembly removed.
  • In the center of the hub there is a dust (grease) cap.
  • Using slip-joint pliers or a special dust cap removal tool, wiggle the cap out of its recess in the hub.
f40-21.jpg A special tool for removing a dust cap. If one is not available use slip-joint pliers.
  • Now remove the cotter pin and nut lock from the end of the spindle.
  • Loosen the spindle nut while supporting the brake assembly and hub.
  • On many vehicles you will need to remove the brake caliper to remove the brake disc and hub.
  • Once the hub is free to come off the spindle, remove the spindle nut and the washer behind the nut.
  • Move the hub slightly forward, then push it back. This should free the outer bearing so you can remove it.
  • Now remove the hub assembly. A grease seal located on the back of the hub normally keeps the inner bearing from falling out when the hub is removed.
  • To remove the bearing assembly, the grease must be removed first. In most cases, all you need to do to remove the seal is pry and pop it out of the hub.
  • The inner bearing should then fall out.
  • Keep the outer bearing and inner bearing separated if you plan on reusing them.
  • Wipe the bearings and races or use brake parts cleaner to clean them.
  • While doing this, pay close attention to the condition and movement of the bearings. The bearings need to rotate smoothly.
  • Also visually inspect the bearings and races after they have been cleaned. any noticeable damage means they should be replaced.
  • Also inspect the spindle. If it is damaged or excessively worn, the steering knuckle assembly should be replaced.
  • Whenever a bearing is replaced, its race must also be replaced.
  • Races are pressed in and out of the hub. Typically the old race can be driven out with a large drift and a hammer. Once the race has been removed, wipe all grease from the inside of the hub.
  • The new race should be installed with the proper driver.
  • During assembly, the bearings and hub assembly must be thoroughly and carefully lubricated.
  • Care must be taken not to get grease on the brake disc or on any part that will directly contact the disc.
  • Always use the recommended grease on this assembly. The grease must be able to withstand much heat and friction. If the wrong grease is used, it may not offer the correct protection or it may liquefy from the heat and leak out of the seals.
  • The bearings should be packed with grease. It is important that the grease is forced into and around all of the rollers in the bearing. Merely coating the outside of the bearing with grease will not do the job.
  • A bearing packer does the best job at packing in the grease. If one is not available, force grease into the bearing with your hand. Install the greased inner bearing into the hub.
  • Install a new grease seal into the hub.
  • To avoid damaging the seal, use the correct size driver to press the seal into the hub.
  • Lubricate the spindle, then slip the hub over the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer, and lock nut.
  • The lock nut should be adjusted to the exact specifications given in the service manual.
  • Often it is tightened until the hub cannot rotate, then it is loosened about one-half turn before it is set to the specified freeplay. The initial tightening seats the bearings into their races.
  • Once the lock nut is tightened, install the nut lock and use a new cotter pin to retain the lock.
  • The adjustment of the bearings can be checked with a dial indicator.
f40-22.gif Wheel bearing adjustments can be checked with a dial indicator. Reprinted with permission.
  • Mount the base of the indicator as close as possible to the center of the hub.
  • Locate the tip of the indicator's plunger on the tip of the spindle.
  • Set the indicator to zero.
  • Firmly grasp the brake disc and move it in and out.
  • The total movement shown on the indicator is the amount of freeplay at the bearing.
  • Compare your reading to the specifications and make adjustments as necessary.
WARNING Throughout this entire process, your hands will have grease on them. Be very careful not to touch the brake assembly with your greasy hands. Clean them before handling the brake parts or use a clean rag to hold the brake assembly.
  • The front bearing arrangement often found on FWD and 4WD vehicles is often nonserviceable.
  • These bearings are pressed in and out of the hub to be replaced. To do this, the axle or half shaft is removed, as is the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
  • The bearings may be sealed and require no additional lubrication or they may need to be packed with grease when they are reassembled. In most cases, the bearings are not adjusted.
  • A heavily torqued axle nut is used to hold the assembly in place on the axle.
  • This nut is typically replaced after it has been removed and is staked in place after it is tightened.

Oct 15, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace a wheel bearing on a 2005 ford escape 4x4

All the Ford Escapes (thru 2011) have a Gen1 cartridge type bearing on the front. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is also the same for all Escapes; FWD and AWD, V6 and I4. I'm not sure, but I suspect the Hybrids are the same also.
The Gen1 bearing is difficult to replace yourself unless you have access to a hydraulic press.
The bearing has a press fit into the knuckle and the wheel hub. For most people, I would recommend the dealer or a decent shop.

If you're brave, here are the shorthand steps to replace the bearing:
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor. It's a small bolt, be careful.
Remove the axle nut and press the axle shaft out (You should use a special tool for this) Beating it with a hammer is NOT recommended and will damage the axle threads. It's not stuck or rusty, the spline on the axle has a slight Helix that locks it to the hub.
Remove the lower ball joint. Do this first, while the strut and tie rod are still connected, because you might have to really work it over. Remove the cross (pinch) bolt and nut. Pull the ball joint out. If stuck, you may have to open the pinch joint a little with a punch or chisel.
Remove the tie rod nut and the tie rod from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 strut bolts.

I'm pretty sure that the knuckle/hub assembly is now loose, then:
Press the hub out of the bearing. Half of the inner bearing race will be stuck on the hub.
Press that inner race off the hub. Maybe a "bearing splitter" will work.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle. It's OK to press against the inner race; you're going to replace it anyway. (Note: whatever you're doing, don't try to save the bearing. Don't.)
The new bearing can be installed either way; it's symetrical.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only! Do not press across the inner race. You can use the old outer race as a press tool. Do not damage the seal retainer or seal.
Insert the snap ring. Make sure it's fully seated. Check it again.
Press the hub into the bearing. Do NOT press thru the knuckle (and the bearing) as a base. You must support the bearing at the inner race. Using the knuckle will damage the bearing, and you'll be doing this all over in about 500 miles.

The knuckle can be reinstalled on the vehicle in whatever order you want, but I recommend putting some grease on the spline and put it on the axle first and hand start the nut. You can torque the nut later. The axle nut torque is 300Nm (220Ft-lbs).

Good luck.

Jul 01, 2010 | 2005 Ford Escape

1 Answer

How do i replace front wheel bearings on a 1991 subaru lyale 4wd wagon ?

  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, and secure in a soft-jawed vise.
  2. Drive out the hub from the steering knuckle. If the inner bearing race remains in the hub, press it out.

    NOTE Be careful not to scratch the polished area of the hub.

  3. Remove the rotor shield.
  4. Remove the inner and outer seals.
  5. Remove the snapring from the steering knuckle.
  6. Press the inner bearing race to remove the outer bearing.
  7. If equipped with ABS, remove the tone ring.
  8. Press the wheel lugs from the hub.

    NOTE To prevent deforming the hub, do not hammer the lugs out.

To install:
  1. Press new wheel lugs into the hub.
  2. If equipped, clean all foreign material from the hub and tone ring. Install the tone ring.
  3. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the plastic lock from the inner race and press a new, greased bearing into the hub by pressing the outer race.
  5. Install the snapring into its groove.
  6. Press a new outer oil seal until it contacts the bottom of the housing.
  7. Press a new inner oil seal until it contacts the circlip.
  8. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
  9. Install the rotor shield and tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  10. Attach the hub to the steering knuckle.
  11. Press a new bearing into the hub by driving the inner race.
  12. Install the steering knuckle.
Front axle and bearing assembly—Sedan, Coupe, Loyale, XT, Wagon and Brat

Driving out the inner bearing assembly

Pressing the bearing in

Oct 19, 2009 | 1991 Subaru Loyale

1 Answer

I have a bad wheel bearing how do I replace it

Hub and Bearing Assembly
ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
  • A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
  • A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.

  1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
    Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.

    Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
  1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
    For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
    Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
  1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
    If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
  1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
  1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
  1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
  1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.


    Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
  1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
  1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.

    NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.

    Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .


  1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.

    Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
  1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
    Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
  1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
  1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
  1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
  1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
  1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.

    Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
    Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
  1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.

May 28, 2009 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Need help replacing front hub

Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Remove steering knuckle.
  2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
  3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
  4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:
  1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
  2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
  3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
  4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
  5. Install preload spacer into bore.
  6. Install outer bearing into bore.
  7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
  8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
  9. Install NEW inner seal.
  10. Install knuckle assembly.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Front brake rotor removal

Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.

May 11, 2009 | 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

1 Answer

Removal of hub

Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is.
I'm assuming this is 4wd?
1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor
2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs
3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub.
4. Remove snap rings, brake shoe and thrust plate in order to get to brake drum. The brake drum has 3- T20 Bit Screws in it which you will need a T20 Driver for. Remove that Drum to get to the Adjusting Nut which is a 53mm nut. I used a 54mm sunken open ended wrench/socket, turned the hub, thus, loosening the screw. (By the way, mine was hand turnable, check that first but plan on having something that fits it to tighten it. You can 'borrow' a bearing adjuster nut kit from most pep boys....also, you can push in the axle, CAREFULLY, in order to get a more shallow socket over it)
5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass.
6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?)
7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft.
8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race.
9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.

I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.

DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)

Good luck, Seasmith!

Apr 20, 2009 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Noisy front wheel bearing

It is possible but i do reccomend changing the bearing races in the hub when you do it to prevent any premature wear on your new bearings. A new hub/rotor assembly will come with new races installed if that makes it any easier.


Dec 12, 2008 | 1998 Chevrolet C1500

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