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there is a horn relay and fuse, if these check out see if there is voltage to the horn when you push the horn button. if there is the horn itself is bad. if there is no voltage then then its in the wiring circuit
my guess, its a dead horn? both dead? no actual question asked???????? the fuse is blow? in fuse box, eng. bay box.? if no power to horn, (voltmeter) we check power in and out of relay if there is one. then at the horn button wire, (air bags can kill any mech. defeat them first if heck bent to fiddly steering column parts in any why) all this info is convered in in the FSM, get one. or login to alldata dot come. and read it. here, ill look at yours. now.... a fast look. ok 2 horns, hi/lo, and 1 relay in the under hood fuse box. it should be labeled in the box, HORN the relay can not work if the fuse is blown or the horn enable line is dead. button. the button grounds (0v) the relay via wire color lt.green-blu pin a11 on relay. if the a11 is at 12v the fuse is good. if you push the horn button this A11 goes from 12v to 0v, and the relay energizes (click) and the horns both blow. if no power makes it to the horns, the relay is bad no 12v if by chance the relay output to horns go to 12v, then the horns are both dead.
Check fuse. Usually located under the Steering wheel or under the hood. You will have to use the other side of the cover to determine which fuse controls the horn and see if the metal link is broken. If both are not blown its probably a short in the wire. If it randomly just happened then its a good first guess without knowing any further details.
Usually I check all my fuses any time I am looking for a specific one. Sometimes a random fuse can be the cause, and not the actual Horn fuse that is blown.
The click you hear is the horn relay -- this likely has either dirty / corroded connections or burned contacts inside the relay. If cleaning all relevant connections doesn't solve the problem, replace the relay. You can find the realy by having someone push the horn button while you track down the click.
There is a 10 amp horn fuse either in your cabin fuse box or the engine compartment fuse box. If it is not the fuse, you will need to troubleshoot to find the cause. First, find the horn relay (usually in the engine compartment relay box) and pull it out. Have someone hold the horn button down while you push the relay back into it's socket. The relay should click as you push it in. If it clicks, your problem is probably in the wiring to the horns. You'll have to trace the wires from the horns to the relay box to see if the connector went bad or what happened. If the relay doesn't click, you can try replacing the relay, but the problem may also be with the horn button. To troubleshoot the button, you need a 12 volt test light. You can get one for a few bucks at a parts store or WALMART auto tools isle.
Use the test light to interrogate the relay socket. Remove the relay from it's socket. connect the clip of your test light to the positive side of your battery and then probe all of the relay socket terminals while someone holds the horn button down. One of the terminals should turn the light on bright. Some of the terminals may light it dimly, but at most one will make it bright. If none makes it bright, your horn button is not working or the wire from the horn button to the relay box is cut. If you have questions, please let me know. If you want to understand the relay, see my post at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check
Check fuse for horn and for dash lights. If the interior lights work then suspect dimmer switch for the dash lights. If you press the horn button do you hear a click under the hood or inside the car? If you do not then the fuse is blown and if the fuse is good then the relay may be suspected bad. If the fuse is good and the relay clicks then suspect the horn to be bad. If fuse is blown and you put a new one in and you push the horn and the fuse blows again, then disconnect the horn before replacing the fuse again. Then push the horn button and see if you hear the relay click if you hear a click the the horn is bad or wiring butmost likely the horn. If you have the horn unplugged and the fuse is good and you push thee horn button and no relay click suspect the horn button to be bad. Hope this helps.
Horns die like crazy on these. put power to the horn and make sure it works. The horn button is possible too the clockspring connection at the steering wheel. Find the wire in the harness under the colum that works the horn its black and it's on one end of the connector. with a test light hooked to ground, touch the wire and it should light dimly and the horn relay shough click. if it does the horn is likly or the fuse is blown two wires at the horn one shold be hot all the time and the other becomes grond pushing the horn button if thats good the horn is bad
Your horn buzzer is either broken, or it is not getting power. The click you hear is the horn relay. It is good that you can hear it.
To diagnose the problem, locate the horn module. It should be behind the grill in the front of the car. Remove the power wire. Get an assistant to press the horn button while you measure voltage in the connector. If you have voltage, replace the horn. If not, find out why there is no voltage. It could be a blown horn fuse or a broken wire. Good luck.
I had almost the identical problem on my 2005 F150 FX4 Extended cab last weekend. The power door locks would not lock using the keypad, remotes, or door buttons. Almost all other functions worked correctly. The doors unlocked, the radio delay functioned, and the interior lights dimmed. When I used the remote the horn would beep twice indicating that a door was open even there was no message on the message center that a door was open. When I used the keypad or remote, I could hear a soft click from behind the seat. I think it was coming from the body security module or body security module - whatever Ford is calling it this year. I pulled the fuse for the Power Door Locks(BSM). As I removed it, I heard a soft click - sort of like a relay resetting. It may have come from the VSM/BSM. It may have possibly been a stuck actuator releasing. I don't think so. It wasn't that load. In any case, everything is functioning correctly now.