Question about Toyota Land Cruiser

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Hi there I have a general question regarding the engine of my LJ78 Landcruiser 2.4TD (L2-TE), 1991. It has a little more than 200'000 kms on it. Unfortunately I get blue smoke, and the engine burns about a liter per 600 kms. The smoke is particularly strong when I let the engine idle for 5 minutes or more. I have also discovered that then, it accumulated as lot of oil in the tube from the turbo over to the engine inlet. Now, many people tell me that this engine itself cannot be done, after 'only' 200k kms. So my question is, what would you suggest, I should do. Recently, I have also quite a lot of black smoke. Is that an issue of making adjustments or replacement? In other words, do I bring the car to a tuning garage, or is thare any way to do this DIY by changing certain parts? Many thanks Manfred

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  • mlemke May 24, 2009

    Hi, thanks for your response. I concur with what you are saying regarging the pollition, I feel realy not at ease whith the situation.

    Now, if I wanted to change the valve seals, are they included in a standard gasket set?

    If I understand you correctly, that would not be a major undertaking to change them, and thus not to be too expensive.

    There remains the question about the reason for the oil being accumulated during idling and burnt when the engine is accelerated after some time. That does not necessarily sound like a valve or even a piston ring issue, as the engine ought to be burning the oil weeping into the chamber immediately.

    I had suspected a leak in the turbo, but I have had it refurbished and it did not make any change. Is there anything else that comes to your mind in this respect?





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Yes, because your engine is burning oil. That, in turn, means your engine has worn valve guides, piston rings An engine that burns a lot of oil (more than a quart in 500 miles) is an engine that needs to be overhauled. Normal oil consumption should be a quart or less in 1500 miles. Most newer engines consume less than half a quart of oil between oil changes (every 3000 miles). So if your engine is burning oil, it's essentially worn out and needs to be repaired.Because the cost of overhauling or replacing an engine often exceeds the value of an older car or truck, many people will just keep on driving a "mosquito fogger" in spite of the blue clouds of smoke it leaves behind. Never mind the pollution it causes, oil is cheaper than a new or rebuilt engine they reason. That philosophy may be okay if you live out in the sticks somewhere. But in urban areas that require periodic vehicle emissions testing, an engine that's burning oil usually won't pass the test because of excessive hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. You may get by on a waiver after you've spent some money (in vain) on a tune-up, but the fact remains you're still a polluter.An engine that burns a lot of oil will also eventually foul the spark plugs. Thick, black oily deposits build up on the plugs until they cease to fire. Then the engine misfires and loses power. Cleaning or changing the plugs may temporarily solve the problem, but sooner or later they'll foul out again.Forget about "miracle" oil additives or pills that claim to stop oil burning. They don't. Better to save your money and put it towards a valve job and new set of rings.
I would suspect the valve seals are worn. When you shut the engine off, the oil that is on the valve stems, slowly seeps past the seals into the combustion chamber. At start-up this oil is burned away creating the blue smoke. The oil will not seep past the seal while the engine is running. It can be fixed without removing the head but unless it get excessive, I would just take it to the garage and get the valves changed and repaired.
and black smoke is due to --airfilter, but if it began fairly suddenly I suggest you check the turbo pipes (intercooler to turbo) for soft spots. 
They can delaminate internally, this obstructs the airflow and you get the black smoke because the engine is then running very rich.You are using too much fuel, thus the black smoke .... try a short highway drive... if it doesn't clear, then its garage time to have the system reset.
thanks.please do rate the solutionthank you for using fixya.keep updated.

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • bepositive May 24, 2009

    I would begin by looking at the exhaust gas recirculation valve that is located just below the oil filler cap. It is located in the pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. Notice that it has a valve body and  a round vacuum operated actuator that is separated by a saddle-like spacer inside of which is a metal rod with a slot (valve stem). Take the blade of a screwdriver and insert it into the slot and lever the stem back and forth to make sure that it moves freely. Squirt some WD-40 or other spray solvent on the stem to where it enters the valve body to make sure that it moves freely. Then try and start the engine and see if it runs better. 

    a valve guide is basically a round tube that is press fit ito the cylinder head, the stem of the valve rides up and down inside this sleeve as the valve opens and closes.
    the stem seal fits on the spring end of the valve guide and seals against the valve stem keeping oil out of the guide [and running down the stem and getting into the combustion area when the valve opens]
    valve stem diameter and guide bore dimensions are close fitting but the stem is always smaller than the bore [very little oil is available to lubricate this area under normal circumstances] so both the guide and stem can wear [the guide is of a much softer material than the valve so it does most of the wearing] high mileage engines can have very egg shaped guide bores allowing stem movement which if not corrected will ruin a new set of stem seals in short order 

    click this link directly for more help

    click this link directly for more help too exactly what is blue smoke

    and click this link directly to know exactly what is black smoke

    thanks.keep updated.please do rate the solution.



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