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Aside from building a garage or installing an engine block heater I have used this trick in the past on my 98 RR HSE. It may work for you if the starting issue is simply temperature related. Placing a shop-light or shielded work light underneath your block at night will produce just enough heat in many cases to overcome the slow starting problem.
Other possibilities may be under powered/weak battery. The rovers are known for high cranking amp demand and a weak or mismatched battery could certainly cause this problem. On the outside chance that it may be fuel delivery related you might try priming your fuel injection prior to cranking. Do this by turning key to position 2 (or last position before crank) wait til all the bells and whistles stop usually about 3-5 seconds, and repeat a couple times. If this is helpful, the bad news is it may be indicative of mechanical issues on the horizon.
****SAFETY NOTE***** PAY ATTENTION TO LIGHT PLACEMENT MAKING SURE NOT TO PUT IT IN PATH OF OIL LEAKS.
Hope this helps.
Hot starting problems are usually fuel related. When a hot engine is shut off, the temperature of the engine and everything on it continues to rise for awhile as the engine undergoes a period of "heat soak." This can cause fuel to boil inside the carburetor bowl, fuel lines and fuel filter. When you attempt to restart the engine, "vapor lock" obstructs the flow of fuel and the engine doesn't want to start. This is much less of a problem on fuel injected engines because the fuel is usually under much higher pressure inside the injectors and fuel line. Even so, a fuel line routed near an exhaust manifold or a fuel rail that's exposed to a lot of heat may still suffer the same kind of problems. Heat soak problems such as these can sometimes be cured by wrapping insulation around affected fuel lines, and/or installing an insulating spacer or heat shield under the carburetor. A Seasonal Problem Hard hard starting tends to be a seasonal problem, but may be worse in the early months of spring when refiners are switching fuel blends. Gasoline refiners produce fuel with a slightly lower volatility rating (called "Reed vapor pressure") during hot summer months because lower volatility fuel is less likely to boil and cause hot starting problems. During the winter, they switch to a higher volatility fuel because it makes cold starting easier. But if you still have "winter" grade fuel in your tank when warm spring weather arrives, you may experience some hot starting problems. The problem will go away, however, as soon as the refiners in your area switch to their summer grade fuel
Two things come to mind: 1) The electric fans are working intermittently, and somehow stop receiving electricity at high engine speeds. With the car stopped, in park, wait till the fans come on, and have somebody else race the engine while you observe the fans to see if they stop. 2) Happened to me once that a mechanic reversed the polarity of the fans, so they would run backwards. At idle it is no problem, the fan just pushes the air outwards, toward the bumper, but at high speed, the fan air cancelled the oncoming fresh air, and the car would overheat instantly.
Make sure you get the air out. There may be "high spots" on the engine that you can unscrew to let the air pockets t. Close this small valve when just hot water comes out. Unplug the radiator fan and use jumper leads to test the fan operation. Use a scan tool to check for codes. If you get a scan tool that gives live data, see that the PCM sees the actual temperature of the engine after 5 to 10 minutes of running. It should see the temp. rising to 225 degrees farenheit. Replace engine temperature sensor if the PCM doesn't recognize the proper temperature. You ARE going to compare this to the temperature gauge!!! If all else fails, get the PCM recalibrated or flashed at the dealership.