I have had brand new Thermostats that are bad. The way to check a thermostat is to boil it in water and see when it opens. You may need to have your radiator cleaned or roded out. You can also remove your thermostat and see what happens then I would start by flushing the system and see what you get.
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I shouldn't be blocked because it is pretty new. The systems are usually good for 10 yrs or so before they start getting gunked up. I would think it is either the electric fan or the fan clutch (whichever you have) could be out and it isn't cooling the engine. Also, you could have air in the system which could cause the rest of the coolant to not circulate. Check for an air bleeder valve near the top of the engine, usually near the thermostat housing.
There are two possibilities, one is the thermostat. Many people remove them which spoils the whole heating / cooling system. Since you changed the thermostat, I would check the heater valve on the heater which allows the hot water to circulate through the heating system.
It may be necessary to remove the heater box and flush the heater core since you talk about a lot of rust, which could have clogged the heater core and / or the pipes leading to the heater.
First check your fuses and relays for the fan. Next, you can run 12V directly from the battery to the fan, if it operates, you can eliminate a bad fan as a possibility of the cause and then test the fan's thermostat switch. If the radiator is sufficiently corroded it will also cause the symptoms you describe since part of the cooling surfaces will be effectively blocked off. The chance that the water pump is causing the problem is very slim. You can verify the pumps operation by starting the engine with the radiator cap off and allowing it to get up to operating temperature. When it's at operating temperature, you should see the coolant flowing through the radiator; it's the water pump that causes the flow through the radiator. If you see the coolant flowing, your pump should be fine.
make sure you have enough cooling in it and the radiator cap is good because the pressure is not good on the cap it will not open the thermostat (smile ) if its in backward it do the something but sometime the car would over heat Merry Christmas and Happy New Year as always wish you the best of luck Michigan Man
You may have air trapped in the lines to or from the heater core.
If you (still) have a real radiator cap on the radiator, remove it with a cold engine, start and run the engine allowing it to warm up while watching the water/coolant level.
Make sure the heater control is set to its highest heat setting while doing this.
If it is trapped air, you may see it 'belch' after the engine is warm and the engine thermostat is open.
Refill as needed if this is the case.
It's more difficult without direct radiator access and may require several cycles of hot/cold to allow refilling through the overflow.
Did you get the cylinder head checked for cracks or warping. A simple check for cylinder head problems is. Take off the radiator cap start up the engine and check if the coolant blows out if it does then you have cylinder head problems. Next check is the system may be airlocked to check this start it up and leave it running until it heat's put your heater to hot and switch on the blower if it blows warm its ok if its cold or lukewarm then the system needs bleeding. If none of the above is the problem then you will need a new radiator. Thats the full check that all mecanic's carry out on a cooling system. Cheer's