What should the percentage be on the TPS? - 2003 Suzuki Aerio

Did you watch the TPS numbers on a scan tool in your car?
TPS code means TPS bad or wiring or TPS adjustment.
Change the TPS as they cost nothing and do wear out.

As the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor also operates using vacuum you can unplug the small vacuum line and use a handheld brake type vacuum pump. Just make sure to plug the line you removed.
I forget exactly the values you should see, but at the least you should see some changes when increasing or decreasing vacuum.

Throttle Position Sensor/Switch (TPS) A Circuit Malfunction
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a potentiometer that is mounted to the throttle body. It detects the throttle blade angle. As the throttle blade moves, the TPS sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Usually a three wire sensor: A 5 volt reference from the PCM to the TPS, a ground from the PCM to the TPS, and a signal return from the TPS to the PCM. The TPS sends the throttle position information back to the PCM on this signal wire. When the throttle is closed the signal is near .45 volts. At WOT (Wide Open Throttle) the TPS signal voltage will approach a full 5 volts. When the PCM sees a voltage that is outside of normal operating range, P0120 will set. NOTE: The PCM knows that any large change in throttle position means a cooresponding change in manifold pressure (MAP). On some models the PCM will monitor MAP and TPS operation for comparison. Meaning that if the PCM sees a large percentage change in throttle position, it expects to see a cooresponding change in manifold pressure and vice versa. If it doesn't see this comparitive change, P0120 may set.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brock_d67526d2a834c47e

no engine option stated, and is key fact to know here.
eg:
The 5.7L V8 engine does not use a separate Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body.

remove old TPS, and bolt on new.
its like 2 or 3 screws. no big deal.
but needs to be calibrated per fsm.
ill take a wild guess, 3.7L
3.7L Engine and 4.7.

1. Remove air resonator tube at throttle body.
2. Disconnect TPS electrical connector.
3. Remove two TPS mounting screws.
4. Remove TPS.

install
The throttle shaft end of throttle body slides into a socket in TPS. The TPS must be installed so that it can be rotated a few degrees. (If sensor will not rotate, install sensor with throttle shaft on other side of socket tangs). The TPS will be under slight tension when rotated.

1. Install TPS and retaining screws.
2. Tighten screws to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm) torque.
3. Connect TPS electrical connector to TPS.
4. Manually operate throttle (by hand) to check for any TPS binding before starting engine.
5. Install air cleaner tube to throttle body.

some TPS need calibration
to see what yours needs, read the FSM
or at alldata.com
or here. I think all engines here, are TPS PCM autocalibrated.

read WJ car here
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

TPS would never cause your engine speed to increase. It only sends a signal to the PCM indicating throttle (open) percentage.

Intake/vacuum leaks can cause engine speed issues.

Your throttle body may also be sticking open. This would also explain your high throttle open percentage.

There's no set percentage to what the difference is between brake and wheel horsepower. It all depends on the specific car and components and engine. Some cars have a huge percentage of horsepower lost while some have minimal loss.

Most vehicles do not speak to percentage but to driven miles In your owners manual there is a page that has the manufacturer's recommended oil change schedule, and those pages generally say 2000-3000 miles on the first change, then 7500 there after. The percentage usage is a reminder that you are getting near the 2000-3000 mark, but this can be reset by a push of a button.

The TAC (throttle actuator control) is where both TPS sensors reside. On an older system this would be the throttle body. This system uses redundant TPS and APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors. If the problem were with the APP then you should have a code for a correlation problem between the TPS and APP or one APP sensor to the other. The most common issue by far that I have found is carbon build up in the throttle bore causing the plate to be stuck open. Remove the air intake tube from the TAC assembly and see if there is a ring of carbon around the area of the throttle plate. If so then using carb spray and an old toothbrush, clean the throttle body out. You can hold the plate open manually to do this but make certain the key is off or you will set several other codes and the throttle plate will fight against you. You can also remove the TAC assembly to clean if you like, though I do not recommend it. When you are done you will need to start the vehicle and run in drive for a minute or so, then to park or neutral. A couple of these cycles will usually relearn the position of the plate so that you can test drive. (Carb cleaner in the intake manifold will usually make the first start difficult.) Clear the codes, test drive the vehicle normally, but increase the take off and stop hard a few times after a few minutes of easy driving. Check and clear any codes that may have set on the test drive. You will want to drive again normally and check for codes again. If you do not have carbon the most likely culprit will be the TAC itself. The TPS sensors are intergral so you usually need to replace the whole TAC. Though I have seen only a handful of them that actually need replacement.
Good luck

The timing belt or chain controls the engines timing.

The TPS stands for Throttle Position Sensor it senses when the throttle is open a certain percentage and sends a certain voltage to the car's ecu (computer) and it tell it how much more/less fuel to put into the engine is adapt with the extra/lesser air you are putting into your engine.

Now your fuel could be burning too hard might need new plugs, no primary o2 sensor and also use the right grade of fuel. If you use the high test grade of gas when your car doesn't need it that will also burn the fuel too hot because it's not a high compression engine

In the owners manual, you will find reset procedures.

I found this for ya, hope it helps!

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Oil Change Reset
A press of the OIL CHANGE RESET switch will allow you to
reset the oil life feature to 100% (or your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage). After you have the oil changed, you must execute
the following procedure. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch
and hold for five seconds as the M/C counts down for five
seconds. After a successful reset the Message Center will display
“OIL LIFE RESET TO 100%.” If you have established a
Personalized Oil Reset Percentage, the display will show that
percentage instead of 100%. To ensure accurate oil life
indicators, perform this reset procedure only after an oil change.
Your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage allows you to establish a
smaller oil change interval than the manufacturer’s
recommended interval. To establish your Personalized Oil Reset
Percentage perform the following procedure:
1. Press and hold the OIL CHANGE RESET switch and press
the RESET switch while the display is still counting down
the 5 seconds to reset. The display will change to “START
OIL LIFE AT XXX%.”
2. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch until the displayed
percentage is the Personalized Oil Reset Percentage that you
desire. Your choices are 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%,
40% and 30%.