NEED THE BIG END BEARING TENSIONS FOR A MAZDA 3 2.3L 2007
The motor has spun the bearing on no:1 cyl, the car has only done 60,000kms still under warranty but Mazda Australia refuses to come to the party. So we have purchased all the parts to repair the car ourselve being a mechanical workshop with 20 yrs experience, but we cannot get the correct tension specifications for this car even Mazda doesn't have a listing on the 2.3 lt. So any help would be greatly appreciated. My son wants to get the car back on the road so that he can take it to Mazda and get the bodywork that they damaged repaired asap......My son paid extra to get 5 years warranty and they say because they didn't service the car there is no service history so no warranty, henceforth
my son is totally disillusioned about the whole thing. They also can't tell him what has caused the problem, their first thought was no servicing but I proved them wrong on that. Any ideas if this is a common occurance.......
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
could be a big end or main bearing but there are a few simple checks that can be done first
1--have the oil pressure checked using a mechanical gauge
if there is a bad bearing there will be low pressure at idle
2 --check the exhaust for smoke under load
if there is a bad bearing , the escaping oil will overload the oil ring and produce smoke
( if smoke comes after idling at lights and on taking off that is valve stem seals)
3--- run the fault codes and check for knock sensor problems
the noise could be detonation under load from lean fuel mixture or incorrect timing
4---check the ignition timing
5-- run the engine when it is knocking and remove a plug wire and see if the knocking stops
bearings will stop knocking if there is no combustion to place load on the crankshaft
That will also indicate which big end you have to check if you have to pull the sump
Too far advanced will cause the pistons to slap the cylinder walls hard for too far advanced ignition
you statement that the noise goes after 40 indicates that it is not a bearing as the high the rpm the louder the noise
taking the foot off the pedal indicates detonation
lastly if all the checks prove good , you could always have the sump removed and check each big end and main individually for damage
sometimes a failing cam chain if fitted ( no motor identified) will knock as the chain hits the timing cover
You are up for an engine rebuild. Remove the engine and turn up side down in a stand. Remove the sump and find the failed bearing by taking off the big end caps. If you find a con rod damaged you will have to remove the head and that piston and replace the con rod. If it is a main bearing that has spun you should only have to replace the crank shaft and fit new bearing shells Either way you will need another crank shaft. Check the price of a low mileage engine from a wrecker as it will be quicker and possible cheaper in the long run
Being front wheel drive, you may be able to drop the oil pan and access the rod and bearing from under the car, keep it clean and use proper torque. If the bearing had spun you'll need to pull the mootr and have the crank turned other wise it may quickly spin again.
I hope this may have assisted you,
Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe. The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine. What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing. Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep. A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation. Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them. Best of luck.
Hi there i read you report. OK sounds like that it wasn't no axle grease put in before the bearing was put in.try this put some grease in the axle then put grease on the bearing and put it in. Because some people don't think about this and cause more problems down the road. let me know. remember not a little bit enough where you can't see inside of the axle. hope this info helps you and good luck. Ty you for writing to fix ya.
Usually this can be done but I think that if you have wear on thrust faces, there is likely wear on support faces as well, Once you have the pan off, plastigage both rod and main bearings. if out of specs, you really should change all of them!! Make sure you torque everything properly and avoid getting oil on backs of bearings when installing... can lead to spun bearing. good luck
it does sound like a big end bearing and yes the piston will come outta the bloc k eventually if you keep driving
it can be replaced no need for a new engine
you will need a engine if it does come outta the side
but to fix a big end is not that much, if u need a new engine for your veichle is about a few grand
but 100 percent big end bearing i done one last week on a suburu wrx imprezza turb all up it was 550 or so