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Re: bolts on caliper stuck
Anti seize compound is probably nut used so it will take some force to break them loose. DO NOT USE HEAT for that will weaken the harden steels strength. Use the tool that fits on to these bolts and firmly swat them very hard with a dead blow hammer. The shock from the force will break apart the rust inside
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Hi Steve, I'm glad to help. First, take of the front wheel's. Then press the calipers inward, this will make it easier to remove the calipers. Next, remove the calipers with the old pads. PUSH the calipers all the way back and install the new pads. There are only 2 bolts holding a single caliper. NEXT, If you plan to replace the rotors. NOTE: Which I recommend. You'll need to remove the bracket that holds the caliper, there is only 2 bolts holding it to the spindle. NEXT, Remove the rotor and relace with new rotors. Note: sometimes the original rotors are stuck because of rust you'll need to tab them off with a hammer. After installing the new rotors, it helps to put one nut on to hold the rotor in-place. Then re-install the bracket, the caliper and thighten the bolts. CAUTION: DO NOT try to drive the vehicle until pumping the brakes and they are very firm. Install the wheels and your good to go. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Steve!
Depending on make and model of vehicle, remove the tires, remove the two bolts on the caliper, remove caliper and press caliper piston with caliper press one side at a time, remove caliper bracket bolts and bracket if applicable, remove rotor, may require tapping with a hammer if stuck. Reverse procedure tightening bolts to manufacturer specs. Some 3/4 ton and bigger trucks require removing axle shaft and hub.
Don't need a diagram for this... Leave the center nut alone! To replace the pads and remove the rotors, remove the two bolts that are on the inboard side of the calipers. Can't remember the size but there are small, somewhere around 10mm to 1/2". Once you get them off, remove the pads, then re-install the inner pad and using a large "c" clamp, drive the piston back into the caliper. Once the caliper has been removed, it should just about fall off. If not, use lots of wd40 or other solvent around where it meets the hub and into the wheel studs where they pass through the rotor. Use a heavy mallet or even a hammer to loosen them up. Rotors are inexpensive and generally cutting them unless they are not very old is not recommended, so don't bother saving them unless it's absolutely necessary. Be careful threading the caliper bolts back in. They must be in straight as they are very narrow and easily cross threaded.Always make sure that the slides they pass through are not frozen ane are properly lubed. Install is the reverse of removal.
remove the caliper, by removing the two holding bolts, then use a old brake pad against the pistons and a c clamp and push piston all the way in, next is to clean and lube pad mounting surface and the caliper slide pin, then install new pads on bracket then caliper and tighten caliper bolts, heres a diagram to help you,
1. remove 2 bolts holding caliper on (either 12 or 14 mm) 2 remove 2 bolts holding caliper bracket (which holds the brake pads) (17mm) 3. remove the 2 phillips head bolt holding the rotor on 4 remove rotor, if rusted may need to tap it off 5 reverse procedure, when reinstalling caliper, may need to press piston back into caliper to get it to fit over new rotor
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
You will find two bolts on the back side of the caliper that go into two small rubber boots. Likely the bolt heads on yours are torks head and need appropriate socket to remove. You need to retract pads in order to easily remove caliper from rotor. Retract further with a large "c" clamp before re-installing pads. Lube slides that attachment bolts go through (I use white grease for this) before re-installing them. Be careful to not cross thread bolts when putting them back in. Good luck, and don't forget to rate this answer!!!
first you put the car on stands and and then you take the two bolts out in back of the caliper and remove the caliper and then remove the pin in the center of the rotor and the nut and then take the rotor off and do not forget to repack the bearing with grease and then put it back together take one side apart at a time.just in case you need to take a look at how it goes back together