NO CRANK 101:
sure it can, but so can other things fail....
why guess, buy a $10 voltmeter and find it. no?
1: check fuse first. and if IMMO cluster light is OUT. (not immoblized by alarm)
2: if meter lost, try new starter relay, (wild guess 1:10 chances of a fix.....)
3: it can be bad wires bad, connectors, bad PRNDL switch, bad, key switch, IMMOBLIZER ACTIVE, added alarms. added remote start kits, called hacks by me.
what's there after 23 long years?
what to do....
well the steps are all easy in them selves each.
1: battery charged,fuses all test good.
2: does AAA autotow , jumper method work? jump starting car, with running other car. like all folks do, mostly, and for sure standed on the road.
3: did you hot wire the starter solenoid,"?
biggn lug to dinky lug? grrrrrgrrrrrrrrr omg the starter and battery are good. is this hard?
do so in park (wheels chocked) ok>?
the engine will not start doing this hot wire test.
a car keys in pocket SURE.
4: ok now you know for sure the stater works on the actual car. (we can bench test the too)
WORKING ON ACTUAL CAR IS IMPORTANT, TO DIAGNOSIS.
5:on this car, a Toyota Corolla in snake GM skins
we then check the voltages at the starter relay.
it has 4 pins.
2 are coil pins.
2 are power contactor pins.
we measure them cranking (a live test)
how the logic works here varies by "
a: what engine is there, unstated.
b: what trans, auto or stick>???????
c: if car was opted day one with that immoblizer.
but we can just test and let the truth win out.
lacking facts from you as to driveline actual.
Volt meter in hand, DMM set to VOLTS.
black lead of meter to battery neg post.
here are the relay pins.
the concactor relay input pin is 12vdc all the time.
it's at battery voltage .
the key switch sends 12vdc to the coil pin.
there are 4 relay pins in the drawing tell us what to expect.
pin 4 is battery voltage 12v if not, fuse blown.
as seen in the drawing.
pin 3 runs the starter solenoid (now dead)
pin 2 is grounded, 0v, cranked, if not ground bad
or IMMOBLIZER not happy, that P wire is immo
in the factory with IMMO added, the ground wire is cut, seen in the drawing.
pin 1, saving the fun for last.
i check pin 1 , yes, cranking,
11v to 12v good, if good, relay is bad.
if less than battery voltage or near 0 volts
that means the KEY Line to the relay is BAD, DEAD.
if the line is dead, here, at pin 1,
then the clutch switch is bad, (got a stick shift)
or the PRNDL switch is bad, does it crank in Neutral> omg yes?
ok lets say pin 2 on the PRNLD switch is dead.
that means the ignition switch is bad.
but lets move on, to prove that, easy with a $10 meter, no?
at the key switch you find the ST1 pin dead. yes, cranked,
then move the red test lead to AM1 pin on key switch , its dead.
the fuse is blown or bad wring from fuse box to here.
all fuses in the drawing left side are 12vdc hot all times, both ends of fuse.
if not the fuses or wires are bad.there.http://jeepdied.com/no-crank.html