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Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer that is cast into the distributor base.
If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Click to Enlarge Caution! Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Remove the air cleaner, air duct and the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir can remain attached to the hoses---just unbolt it and move it to the side out of your way. Remove the serpentine belt. Before removing the serpentine belt, make sure there is a diagram on the hood or radiator support to show you the belt routing. If the belt routing sticker is missing, sketch out a picture of the belt routing.
Siphon the fluid out of the reservoir of the power steering pump, or be prepared to cap the line ports off. You can cap the line ports off with a piece of rubber hose. Close the open end of the hose with a large bolt. Unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket and set it aside. Cap any open hose ends or pipe fittings. This will prevent additional fluid loss.
Remove the right timing belt cover, spark plug wire cover, left timing belt cover and the ECM harness cover using the ¼-inch tools. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with the 3/8-inch tools. Unclip the power steering hose from the alternator. Using the ¼-inch tools or the 3/8-inch tools, remove the center timing belt cover and the right and left camshaft covers.
Remove the tensioner side plate. The side plate is located just under the left cams and has three bolts holding it on. The tensioner is hydraulic and includes a plunger unit. Turn the plunger unit to remove it from the pulley arm and socket. Make sure you do not lose the tapered brush that sits between the plunger and the mount. Loosen and remove the tensioner pulley bolt (located at about 10 o'clock on the tensioner pulley). Tape the pulley pivot bushing to the pulley so it doesn't fall out. Remove the pulley and the arm. Remove the timing belt.
Installing the Timing Belt
Bend a thick paper clip so you have a straight piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long. Clamp the tensioner plunger at its center in a vise, with the plunger pointing toward the ground. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes to get the oil into the rubber boot. Remove the plug from the flat base of the plunger and insert a small screwdriver into the vent hole. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the pushrod is retracted. Make sure the pushrod is fully retracted before moving on to the next step.
Push the wire peg you created in Step 1 into the vent hole and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until you feel the wire peg lock into the pushrod. Fill the plunger with 5W-30 synthetic engine oil to the bottom of the hole. Do not overfill the plunger. Put the plug back on the plunger. Make sure the plug is in securely and the plunger is completely sealed. Wipe the plunger clean of spilled oil.
Clean the tensioner pulley, but do not lubricate it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder (front cylinder on the driver's side) is at top dead center and the timing marks on the crank pulley and the block are lined up. Top dead center is achieved when the piston in the number 1 hole reaches its complete height in the rotation. You can feel for this by sticking a screwdriver in number 1 spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley.
Turn all four of the camshaft pulleys so that the machined flats are facing up. Install the timing clamps on each camshaft carrier. Torque the bolt on the timing clamp to 22 foot pounds of torque. If there are any timing marks drawn on the camshaft pulleys, erase them.
Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts. Using a rubber hammer, tap each camshaft sprocket to remove any taper. Tighten the sprocket bolts finger-tight. Spin each sprocket to be sure the sprocket turns freely. Make sure there is no back and forth freeplay when the sprockets are being turned.
Install the timing belt starting with the crankshaft pulley. Route the belt to the right guide pulley (as you are facing the engine), then the right exhaust camshaft sprocket, over the top of the right intake camshaft sprocket, then under the center guide pulley, over the left intake camshaft sprocket and over the left exhaust camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side and loose on the left side (again, as you are facing the engine).
Install the tensioner pulley, making sure the pivot brush does not fall out. Leave it taped or use a magnet to hold it in. Torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 37 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner and the side plate. Be sure the pushrod end is seated properly against the tensioner pulley. Torque the side plate retaining bolts to 18 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin and let the plunger extend to its normal position.
Set the torque wrench to 89 foot pounds of torque, then put the torque wrench on the square lug of the tensioner and torque it. This applies initial tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft sprocket three times by hand. This ensures seating of the timing belt and makes sure the engine turns freely without the valves hitting the pistons. Check to be sure the crankshaft pulley timing marks are still lined up.
Torque the bolts on the left camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys to 96 foot pounds of torque. You will need to hold the sprockets to keep them from turning while torquing the bolts. Remove the timing clamp from the left side camshaft carrier. The cams should not move when removing the timing clamp. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise rotation and align the crankshaft pulley marks.
Repeat Step 9 for the right camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys, expect when turning the engine, turn it two complete clockwise rotations and align the crankshaft pulley marks. The flat, machined surfaces on the camshafts will be facing up on one side and facing down on the other side.
Mark the left camshaft exhaust pulley at 2 o'clock and the left camshaft intake pulley at 8 o'clock (the marks should be in line with each other) with fingernail polish or heat paint. Mark the right camshaft exhaust pulley at 10 o'clock and the right camshaft intake pulley at 4 o'clock, lining up the marks. Install all components in the reverse order of removal.
There are three kinds of 302s made from 1982-2001.
5.0L HO This engine was used in 1983-1995 Mustangs, Mark VII Lincolns, and some T-birds and Cougars. All Explorer 5.0L engines are 5.0L HO engines as well. They use the 351W firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Except for the 1983-84 Mustangs, all of these engines are roller cam equipped. They use a reverse rotation water pump and front cover. The 1994-5 Mustang and all Explorers use a unique front cover and water pump.
5.0L Full Size Car This engine was used in 1982-1990 Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis. They use the 289-302 firing order, 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Most of these cars are not roller cam equipped, however sometime in the early 1990s they started using roller cams but retained the 302 firing order. They use a standard (clockwise) rotation water pump and front cover.
5.0L Truck (except Explorer) These engines are similar to the Full Size Car engines, except they use different intake manifolds and camshaft profiles. They also use the 289-302 firing order, 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. They also began using roller cams sometime in the early 1990s. They use a reverse rotation water pump and front cover.
make sure to apply 5w-20 oil to caps prior to install. Also caps and journals are number so you do not install in wrong place. Starting with Righ side looking at pulleys from front, right side cam start with first cap on left being #1 then bolt on other side of cap as #2. Cap behind would be #3 to left then #4 bolt next to it. Keep tightening the next 2 caps behind them in same manner, then jump to front of cam to left side and tighten caps front to back. You should tighten to 10 Nm (89 lbs-in) with a torque wrench. Then you tighten left side head cam caps starting with the left side if looking at front pulleys. Start at front caps working to rear then jump to right side cam front to back. Tighten these caps at 8 nm (71 lb-in) using torque wrench. Also make sure if heads are bolted to block that cam pulley postion is the following: left side looking at pulleys------left pulley mark at 12 o'clock right pulley mark at 3 o'clock. Right side head looking at pulleys------- left side pulley at 9 o'clock and right side pulley at 12 o'clock. When I say clock postion that means using head where valve covers meet as your straight vertical postion.
For timing, on 1981 and later 4 cyl engines (from the Haynes manual): 1. Turn camshaft so both valves for #1 cylinder are closed, and turn the crankshaft so #1 piston is at top dead center (woodruff key should be pointing up). 2. Engage the camshaft sprocket (with stamped numbers facing out) into the timing chain, and install the chain around the crankshaft sprocket. The bright links on the chain should be aligned with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (on the right side as you look at it) and with the number "2" stamped into the camshaft sprocket, which should also be on the right side as you look at it. 3. Install the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft, aligning the camshaft dowel pin with the number "2" hole near the center of the sprocket.
For the firing order and wiring routing for the 8 plug 4 cylinder engine: (Plugs on the intake manifold side are coded "I", and on the exhaust manifold side are coded "E")
Wire to 1I should be connected to tower on the distributor facing directly to the front of the vehicle. Going counterclockwise from there, the order is (1I), 2E, 3I, 1E, 4I, 3E, 2I, and 4E.