Question about 1998 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

PCV valve? IAC valve? Sparkplug wire? Throttle body? Vacuum hose?

I had a diagnostic ran about half a year ago and said a misfire in cylinder 6 was occuring; the check engine light would come off and on. It went away a while ago. My car makes funny hiss/clicking sounds upon accelerating around 2500 rpms. And now just recently, began to have a rough idle and when accelerating, glugs. It feels like (at idle) it is going to die. My suspicions are: Sparkplug wire? Vacuum hose? PCV valve? IAC valve? Throttle body?

Check: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/index.html
for almost identical diagnostic of the charateristics my car has.

Thanks A MILLION!!!

-Ryan

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  • teal_ryan May 22, 2009

    PCV is all good. Sounds like a vacuum leak at the intake. I forgot to mention low throttle response and power around 65 mph. I step on the throttle, and my RPM and MPH remains at a constant and at times, the RPM will make a small jump but, with no change in speed will fall quickly back to where it was stuck.

  • teal_ryan May 22, 2009

    PCV is all good. Sounds like a vacuum leak at the intake. I forgot to mention low throttle response and power around 65 mph. I step on the throttle, and my RPM and MPH remains at a constant and at times, the RPM will make a small jump but, with no change in speed will fall quickly back to where it was stuck.

  • teal_ryan May 22, 2009

    PCV is all good. Sounds like a vacuum leak at the intake. I forgot to mention low throttle response and power around 65 mph. I step on the throttle, and my RPM and MPH remains at a constant and at times, the RPM will make a small jump but, with no change in speed will fall quickly back to where it was stuck.

  • Anonymous May 23, 2009

    same prob as you! if you have oil in your air intake check intake plenum gasket with soapy water, any bubbling and you found your prob.

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The most common causes are plug wire, plug, vacuum leak at intake, fuel injector failure and last no/low cylinder compressio.

Posted on May 22, 2009

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Sounds like a dirty Throttle Body and dirty IAC (Idle Air Compensator) valve. Get some good Throttle Body cleaner remove the flexible hose at the Throttle Body spray it and wipe it very very clean an old tooth brush works good for getting in there.

Now remove the IAC from the side of the throttle body, careful with the gasket if you want to reuse it. Spray it down good inside moving the valve back and forth as you do let it soak for a few minutes and clean it again. Blow it out with some compressed air and reinstall it. Put some throttle body/injector cleaner in the fuel tank.

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Hi.

Check the following in order:

IAC valve wiring, connectors and vacuum hoses.
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EGR valve wiring, connectors and vacuum hoses.
PCV system.
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Check position of the air intake for leaks. Tighten its screws.
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If the car idles up and down there may be an air leak from air intake or IAC, EGR, there may be a vaccuum leak or PCV system may be malfunctioning. Those are the things to check first and with more attention.

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When i turn on heater or fan engine revs over 3000 rpm


Idle Air Control Valve Pintle may be bad If you disconnect the IAC and the problem ceases it can point to this being the problem.: Removal & Installation 3.5L Engine To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove the fuel injector sight shield.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The air cleaner intake duct. Figure of IAC and TPS electrical connectors disconnected. aurora_g1.gif

    • The idle air control (IAC) valve and throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connectors. Figure of cruise control and throttle control cables removed from throttle lever. aurora_g2.gif

    • The cruise control cable and throttle control cable from the throttle body lever.
    • The fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose, positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose and the throttle body vacuum port hose.
    • The throttle body coolant hoses.
    • The throttle control cable bracket, leaving the throttle and cruise cables connected.
    • The upper nut holding the throttle body to the intake manifold.
    • The throttle body assembly.
  5. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
To Install:
  1. Install a new gasket and new studs if necessary.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • The throttle body assembly.
    • Start the top nut by hand.
    • The throttle body coolant hoses.
    • Position the throttle control cable bracket and hand start the retaining nuts and bolt.
    • Torque the three throttle body retaining nuts to 89 in.lbs. (10 Nm). And the bracket retaining bolt to 115 in.lbs. (13 Nm).
    • The throttle body vacuum port hose, PCV valve hose and the fuel pressure regulator hose.
    • The throttle control and cruise control cables to the throttle body lever.
    • The IAC valve and TP sensor electrical connectors.
    • The air intake duct.
  3. Refill the cooling system.
  4. Install the fuel injector sight shield.
4.0L Engine To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable.
    • The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor electrical connector.
    • The air cleaner intake duct.
    • The PCV valve fresh air tube. Figure of cruise control cable removed from throttle cable bracket. aurora_g3.gif

    • The cruise control cable and throttle control cable from the bracket.
    • The cruise control cable and throttle control cable from throttle body lever. Figure of IAC valve and TPS connectors removed. aurora_g4.gif

    • The idle air control (IAC) valve and throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connectors. Figure of fuel lines removed from retainer on throttle cable bracket. aurora_g5.gif

    • The fuel feed and return lines from the retainer on the throttle control cable bracket.
    • The transaxle shift cable clip from the throttle control cable bracket. Figure of throttle body removed from water crossover. aurora_g6.gif

    • The throttle body from the water crossover.
To Install:
NOTE: The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor inlet and the outlet of the air cleaner assembly must line up when installed. Misalignment may cause MIL illumination or driveability concerns.
  1. Install or connect the following.
    • The throttle body to the water crossover. Torque the bolts to 106 in.lbs. (12 Nm).
    • The IAC valve and TP sensor electrical connectors.
    • The throttle and cruise control cables to the throttle body lever.
    • The throttle and cruise control cables to the throttle control cable bracket. The transaxle shift cable clip to the throttle control cable bracket.
    • The fuel feed and return line retainer to the throttle control cable bracket.
    • The MAF sensor electrical connector.
    • The air cleaner intake duct clamp. Torque the clamp to 27 in.lbs. (3Nm).
    • The PCV valve fresh air tube.
    • The fuel injector sight shield. Torque the nuts to 20 in.lbs. (2.3 Nm).
  2. Install the negative battery cable.
  3. Pressurize the fuel system and verify no leaks.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

2 Answers

Check engine lights on 99 ford ranger ODB codes 3- need solutions before in shop takes me to the bank help #1- P1506 #2- P1131 #3- P0171 I already know what they mean, got them written down. Need...


DTC P1506 is set when the PCM detects the engine idle speed is greater than the desired rpm. This is most commonly caused by a dirty or bad IAC valve. Cleaning the throttle body will, most likely, cure this problem.

p1131 means that the bank #1 O2 sensor, the bank closest to the firewall, cylinders 1-3 is showing a lean mixture. Could be a vacuum leak, a misfire on that bank, an exaust leak upstream of the O2 sensor, fuel control or injector problem on that bank, a faulty O2 sensor, faulty PCM, faulty wiring in the engine control wiring harness.

P0171
In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling also Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessaryCheck for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

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U i have a 97 ford escort that idles rough so i replaced the wires and plugs it still idles rough but runs a little better the coil shows spark on all cylinders any ideas


Often, on the Escorts of this vintage, rough idle can be due to a leak in the vacuum system. With the engine running, listen closely for any tell-tale hissing sounds coming from any of the vacuum hoses. Check that they are all securely in place and the end-clamps are all tight. Also check that the PCV valve and the hose connecting it to the manifold are securely in place. Another possibility is the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. If it is clogged or sticking, it can cause rough idle. Refer to a service manual to diagnose the IAC valve. Other things to check: make sure that the air intake is unobstructed and clean. You might consider cleaning the manifold and throttle body. Check the air filter and replace if necessary. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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1 Answer

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Check for vacuum leaks. Check PCV hose and other vacuum hoses. Spray carb cleaner around intake, throttle body and vacuum hoses while idling in park. If spraying anywhere causes a change in idle. that area has a vacuum leak.
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