I had a diagnostic ran about half a year ago and said a misfire in cylinder 6 was occuring; the check engine light would come off and on. It went away a while ago. My car makes funny hiss/clicking sounds upon accelerating around 2500 rpms. And now just recently, began to have a rough idle and when accelerating, glugs. It feels like (at idle) it is going to die. My suspicions are: Sparkplug wire? Vacuum hose? PCV valve? IAC valve? Throttle body?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
idle air control [iac] system rpm higher than expected--causes a vacuum leak --leaking air intake after throttle body ---egr valve vacuum leak--damaged/failed/dirty throttle body---a faulty positive crankcase ventilation valve [pcv]----faulty/damaged evap system---failed/faulty [iac] idle air controller //circuit
You should have a trouble code or codes for the cylinder that is not producing power. Once you know which cylinder, you need three things to make power. Spark, fuel, and compression. One of the three components is lacking, such as a faulty injector or mechanical problem.
Depends on what was changed. You say the truck ran fine one direction but not the other, which would rule out what you may have done days ago. If the hose from the throttle body to the oil cap was a vac hose, the engine was sucking crankcase fumes and probably oil into the throttle body. Its possible one of the brake cylinders was stuck and one of the brakes really was applied. Were any of the wheels super hot ?
Sounds like a dirty Throttle Body and dirty IAC (Idle Air Compensator) valve. Get some good Throttle Body cleaner remove the
flexible hose at the Throttle Body spray it and wipe it very very clean
an old tooth brush works good for getting in there.
Now remove the IAC
from the side of the throttle body, careful with the gasket if you want
to reuse it. Spray it down good inside moving the valve back and forth
as you do let it soak for a few minutes and clean it again. Blow it out
with some compressed air and reinstall it. Put some throttle
body/injector cleaner in the fuel tank.
IAC valve wiring, connectors and vacuum hoses. Look for vacuum hoses that are not connected in general. EGR valve wiring, connectors and vacuum hoses. PCV system. Wiring to the two sensors in the air intake. Check position of the air intake for leaks. Tighten its screws. Check wiring in general. Do a code scanning if you have not found anything so far, check wiring of ECM and O2 sensors.
If the car idles up and down there may be an air leak from air intake or IAC, EGR, there may be a vaccuum leak or PCV system may be malfunctioning. Those are the things to check first and with more attention.
DTC P1506 is set when the PCM detects the
engine idle speed is greater than the desired rpm. This is most commonly
caused by a dirty or bad IAC valve. Cleaning the throttle body will,
most likely, cure this problem.
p1131 means that the bank #1 O2 sensor, the bank closest to the firewall,
cylinders 1-3 is showing a lean mixture. Could be a vacuum leak, a
misfire on that bank, an exaust leak upstream of the O2 sensor, fuel
control or injector problem on that bank, a faulty O2 sensor, faulty
PCM, faulty wiring in the engine control wiring harness. P0171In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does
the trick. I
best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake
Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make
dry before reinstalling also Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessaryCheck for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
Often, on the Escorts of this vintage, rough idle can be due to a leak in the vacuum system. With the engine running, listen closely for any tell-tale hissing sounds coming from any of the vacuum hoses. Check that they are all securely in place and the end-clamps are all tight. Also check that the PCV valve and the hose connecting it to the manifold are securely in place. Another possibility is the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. If it is clogged or sticking, it can cause rough idle. Refer to a service manual to diagnose the IAC valve. Other things to check: make sure that the air intake is unobstructed and clean. You might consider cleaning the manifold and throttle body. Check the air filter and replace if necessary. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Check for vacuum leaks. Check PCV hose and other vacuum hoses. Spray carb cleaner around intake, throttle body and vacuum hoses while idling in park. If spraying anywhere causes a change in idle. that area has a vacuum leak.
Possible IAC motor dirty or defective. Remove it. Clean the IAC plunger tip and the throttle body passages with air intake/throttle body cleaner spray can. Reassemble and start vehicle.
Your IAC may be defective, first check the canister purge valve by removing the large hose off the charcoal canster and plugging the hose with a bolt or something you can fit into it, then try it also check PCV valve and see if it's bad. there are more things to check like fuel filter fuel pump and or fuel strainer if fuel tank but would need to have more information to help.