Question about 1994 Geo Prizm

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The car while driving will just ramdomly starting cutting out and then finally take off normally usually it's when the vechile is under a load such as going up a hill or under rapid excelleration such as merging on a interstate. Tried replacing plugs, plug wires, fuel cleaners etc. with no luck

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Sounds like it might be your fuel filter. Change it.

Posted on May 22, 2009

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1996 rranger 2.3 cuts out and almost cuts off at low rpm's and it idles hight


I have to ask the basics, how long since a tune-up, any applicable trouble codes?
Cleaning the throttle body and idle air control may help?
One thought is to unplug maf sensor, start vehicle, if idle is now normal, you found the problem. Could be wiring circuit--connector or maf sensor.
There might be a vacuum leak causing a problem? If fuel trim is high at idle, but, returns to normal under load, it's usually a vacuum leak.

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I can think of two possibilities.
1) The air mass meter could be defective, or covered in dirt, and not providing the right fuel mix under a load heavier than normal driving.
2) The monolith in the Cat may be breaking up and blocking the exhaust system, which would again be more noticeable under load.
Both possibilities are usually accompanied by reduced acceleration and a drop in performance but when the problem starts these things may not be detectable.

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Jaguar 1999 XJ8L battery won't start unless I


This problem could be a number of things. Let's start buy checking for light bulbs that are not going out when car is shut off, such as under hood lid, under trunk lid, inside of car that are hard to see, such as lights that usually stay on till you leave car but normally go of after a few seconds. You can tell buy waiting a while, they will be hot to touch. If this is so this is your problem.
Next check alternator, get an ohm meter, start car, set ohm meter to about 20 volts, and with car running put ohm meter cables red to positive of battery and black to negative of battery. This test should let you know if alternator is working and good if reading is between 13- 14.50 volts, if you do your alternator is good,if not alternator is problem.
Next check the battery with ohm meter. With ohm meter set the same way to 20 volts, and car off , put red lead to positive post and black lead to negative post . Your reading should be 12-12.50 volts. If reading is low 9-10 volts then the final test would be a load test. You may have to go to your mechanic, or a battery dealer for this one because not everyone has a load tester. This test will tell you if you need a new battery. They will know right away. Your problem could be a bad battery. All the above tests are for DIY. If you are not able to perform these tests yourself then go to a battery dealer they will do tests for you. GOOD LUCK.

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My '02 745 BMW will not accelerate under normal engine load. Which makes me have to accelerate gently and drive slowly because my car will cut back on rpms and hesitate real bad. While the car is in park...


You have a injection problem, whether it's a sensor or fuel feed . I wouln't drive the car untill you have issue addressed as you coul;d cause real expensive damage. The PCM will have to be scanned to find out the cause.

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1 Answer

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It does sound like a clutch, but deserves to be more thouroughly checked out, Does the clutch pedal feel normal? is there a little free-travel at the top of the pedal stroke? do you see oil dripping under the car?
Clutches usually go out slowly, they start to slip under heavey load first, then gradually slip even under light loads in low gears. If an axle was loose, it could have spun in it's hub, with the hood open ans an observerstanding beside the car looking down at the axles, slowly let the clutch out (engine running, in reverse gear, ) being careful not to hit your assistant, if the axles turn- one of them, but the wheel doesn't this is your problem. If the axles don't turn with the clutch out, and engine still revs, well it's time for a clutch or transmission, Good luck, hoe this helps

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1 Answer

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Yes...this is a sensor problem and will get worse before it gets better. The crankshaft position sensor on the CTS is famous for this. It's located in the engine block under and slightly ahead of the oil filter and is a bugger to get to.
Good luck...i hope this helps.

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is you vechile cooler then it was usually do you have heat in you vechicle. if you car is not at proper temp then the lock up torque converter will try to keep the vechile in a lower gear to warm it up.

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Could be just about anything, but given that I had the same symptoms that turned out to the fuel pump, I would check that if you haven't already. Mine would run fine for a while, particularly when it was cold, and tested fine at the shop, but after a while under load, it turned out the pressure would suddenly drop to about 15 pounds. A real pain to diagnose, since when it was in the shop it wasn't under load, so it tested OK.

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