Question about 1995 Chevrolet G20
Front heat blows changed front blower motor I have separate control knob for rear heat
The run on two different motors and have two different relays, did you check the relay for the rear blower motor.
Posted on Jan 04, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
These trucks have a problem where moisture builds up in the heater box then freezes. When this freezes and you change your heater settings it breaks the shaft for the blend door. If this is what happened you should be able to look under the dash above and to the right of the gas pedal and you will see two vaccuum accuators one of them you should be able to wiggle around the linkage if it is broke. To fix this you need to remove the entire dash to get the heater box out which involves discharging the AC and draining the coolant because the heater core and evaporator come out. Please rate.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
Notorious for plugged heater cores. Also updated plastic restriction couplers mounted at heater core available from dealer. Try back flushing heater core. Run engine till its at operating temperature then carefully hold the inlet and outlet hose breifly with heater fan on high if hoses are nearly the same temp then flow is good , if not then core is plugged.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
SOURCE: 03 chevy tahoe
There are seperate blowers for the front and rear air. It is most likely either your blower motor or the resistor, both located under the passenger side dash. I got a blower from a salvage yard for $25, But ended up having to get the resister from the dealership for about $130. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
there are separate actuators for the blend doors. one for heat and one for cool. they work opposite and in conjuction with each other, if that makes any sense. ones open, ones close, for each different climate. sounds like the the cold one isn't opening in the rear.
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
I'm just a regular diy'er, no training. Had same problem, 2001 Suburban, front blew cool air when heating, rear heat warmed up nicely. After reading other posts on other boards, took off the the heater hose clamps (make sure you remember which is which) at the firewall. With low pressure garden hose flushed left inlet/outlet first till I got good flow, then the right side, and back to left. Reattached hoses, started and tested. Heat blows just fine. I can't think of anything that could be damaged by this, but check with someone who know something first before trying it on your vehicle, but it worked for me. So far so good.
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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